As we do every year, we carve an easy path through the jungle of bubbles on offer, and sort out the good from the mediocre.
It’s just a few weeks to Christmas, so we should be sorting out the wines we’ll need and want for the break. It’s best done ahead of time, before the good wines and the bargains disappear. Before we pick suitable wines for the festivities, we need to know what foods are likely to grace the table or the barbeque or the picnic. Or all 3.
In our multi-cultural country, I assume that foods will be diverse and Christmas turkeys in the minority. Seafood seems to have moved to the top of many shopping lists over recent years, and there’ll be colourful salads from all corners of the globe.
We have no idea what the weather is going to do, since we won’t see reliable forecasts until a few days before the feast. It will pay to be prepared, so that we can react quickly. The best plan is the put together a variety of wines to suit different tastes and circumstances.
Matching champagne with food is less difficult than you might think, once we accept ‘contrast matching’. Sure, the finest bubbles go well with delicate seafood, but the acidity of sparkling whites cuts through the richness of many dishes including Asian favourites. And sparkling rosé can be good with pink meats such as duck or lamb.
It may be a good idea to lean toward the lighter styles of wine, given that we’ll most likely end up drinking more than usual over the holidays. Anyhow, I’ve put together a list with emphasis on variety, and added some special wines for the festive season.
Some Holliday Reading: Is Champagne really better than the best Aussie bubbles? Our winemakers have been busting a gut for decades to produce a bubbly that could challenge the French icons. Have they succeeded?
More Holiday Reading: A Compact Guide to the World of Champagne It’s a world that’s far away from the humble wines we tend to focus on, but there are special occasions when we buy champagne.
Holiday Tucker: Mediterranean Baked Chicken Dinner, courtesy of Recipe Tin Eats.
BEST VALUE SPARKLING WINES
Wolf Blass Red Label Chardonnay Pinot Noir Premium Cuvee NV – $7 in a twin pack at 1st Choice A clever blend that is surprisingly drinkable; crisp, lively, soft and well balanced. This was bubbles champ Tyson Stelzer’s Sparkling Wine of the Year under $20 in recent years. Check his review at the link. I don’t think it’s quite that good, but at this price you can splash it around with gay abandon. 89 points.
Codorniu Clasico 1872 Cava – $8 at DM’s (member offer). An impressive Spanish take on a cheap bubbly, from a maker that was established 5 centuries ago.
Fleur De Lys Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV – $10 at DM’s. Haven’t tried this Wwine for a while, but the punters love it, and reckon it’s better than Freixinet from Spain, another value option.
Villa Conchi Brut Selection Cava – $15 at DM’s. The Crement de Loire brands DM’s used to sell for $15 are now $20 or more, but the Spaniards are more reasonable. This is a sleeper, fresh and crisp and stylish.
Santa Margherita Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene – $16 at Dan M’s (member special – today) A great Prosecco for the money, and I have no idea why they’re cutting the price. It’s perfectly balanced and not too sweet at 9 grams of sugar. Great mousse, fresh & zippy, perfect spritz for summer lunches. 93 points.
Jacob’s Creek Prosecco Spritz – $17 at Our Cellar. Prosecco infused with blood orange, botanicals and a twist of bitters. These additions sure lift the flavour and add interest, while the package makes a statement of its own. It’s a very smart blend that would please large crowds and irregular wine drinkers. 92 points
Petaluma Croser Sparkling Nv – $18 at Winedirect. 6 bottles minimum; the usual strong-arm tactics at this sight. Lots of reviews form James H here. It’s rich and full-flavoured, and goes well with food. 93 points.
Cave de Lugne Cremant Blanc de Blancs NV – $19 at 1st Choice. Made by a long-established co-op in Burgundy. Cremant styles have fewer bubbles. 100% Chardonnay. Hints of lemon and flowers on the nose, crisp, creamy and round, biscuity characters add interest. 92 points.
Brown Brothers Premier Cuvee NV – $20 at WSD. It’s made from King Valley grapes these days, but the style hasn’t changed much. It’s always been an understated bubbly, a harmonious blend with no rough edges, the kind of wine that doesn’t make a splash but by the second glass it makes you think: hey, this is a pretty decent bubbly. 94 points.
Sidewood Estate Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV – $20 at MyCellars, where the freight is free for subscribers (BWU20). Plenty of bling adorning this bubbly, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Fine bead, some citrus notes on the nose and a whiff of warm bread. Lively on the palate, and textural from the malolactic fermentation plus time spent on tirage lees. Fine acid line to the finish. 94 points.
Taltarni Sparkling Brut 2017 – $21 at WSD. A 6-year-old vintage bubbly that’s spent 3 years on lees at this price is unheard of. I haven’t tried this vintage but past vintages have been complex wines, elegant and crisp, with a creamy texture from malolactic fermentation.
Bouvet Saphir Brut 2020 – $24 at Nicks. Cremant de Loire made from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Outside of Champagne, Bouvet is the most awarded Sparkling Wine House in France. After years of ownership by Taittinger, the Monmousseau family bought back the farm. Check Nick’s’ review at the link. 94 points.
Pink & Red
Mezzacorona Mezza di Rose NV – $19 at Vintage Cellars. La Dolce Vita in a Bottle – truly seductive. I can see this being a big hit at weddings, and at Christmas lunches on a hot day . From the foothills of the Dolomites in northern Italy. 93 points.
Ninth Island Sparkling Rosé NV – $21 at DM’s (member offer). You’d have to spend a lot more to find a better bottle of pink bubbles. Huon Hooke agrees: ‘Pale, beautiful salmon-pink hue; the aromas fresh and attractive with strawberry and red-fruit scents. The palate is rich and fruity, with balanced sweetness and a trace of grip. Icing sugar; almond icing. Lovely wine with poise and grace.’
Seppelt Original Sparkling Shiraz NV – $16 at Dan M’s (member offer). Plums, cherries, Christmas spices and pepper in a vibrant, creamy envelope. 94 Points. No serious competition. at this price.
The Black Chook Sparkling Shiraz – $17 at 1st Choice. Mc:aren Vale Shiraz at its best. Sumptuous, seductive, irresistible, helped by a touch of sweetness. Christmas pudding in a bottle. 94 points
OVER $25
Pirie Sparkling NV – $28 at MyCellars where the freight is free for subscribers on any quantity (promo code BWU20). This has long been a favourite of ours, and it’sin such a classy package. Check the raves at the link.
Georg Jensen Hallmark Cuvee NV – $28 at First Choice. Gorgeous, elegant bottle with a GJ designed reusable metal stopper that sits on a crown seal – great gift idea. The wine is made by Heemskerk in Tassie, and is cool-climate elegant, fresh and crisp with a twist of grapefruit, but it’s not about the wine here. 94 points.
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Chandon Vintage Blanc De Blancs 2016 – $35 at WSD. This wine is in a distinctly better class than the standard NV, and worth the extra money. Largely estate-grown fruit from Whitlands, Strathbogie, and the Upper Yarra. 42 months on lees adds substance; cool climate chardonnay with grapefruit overtones is the main theme here, played with precision. 95 points.
Cloudy Bay Pelorus – $38 at WSD. Bob Campbell tells us that this label is now part of the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy group, and adds that Cloudy Bay’s stable-mates include Moët & Chandon, Krug and Veuve Clicquot. It’s a safe bet to assume that Marlborough-based Cloudy Bay gets some technical help from Champagne producers in the group. The sophistication of this wine certainly suggests it.’
Oh really? Hopefully not from Moet, makers of oceans of Bubbles Ordinaire. The quality is there, though, that’s why I’ve championed this bubbly for a decade. This remains a very good glass of bubbles, and about the last of the top Kiwis now that the Deutz Marlborough wines have disappeared from our shores. 95 points
Charles de Cazanove Tradition Brut NV – $38 at 1st Choice. This is a bargain if you like the softer style of champagne. It surprised me when a friend gave me a bottle. Bob Campbell agrees: ‘Light, aromatic, floral Champagne, with subtle bread and brioche characters. Attractive wine with an ethereal texture and a fine thread of mouth-watering acidity. An appealing Champagne offering value at this price. 94 points.’
Nino Franco ‘Rustico’ Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG – $40 at ilikewine. From Veneto, which is home to Valpolicella and Soave, comes a powerful Prosecco. It opened all zippy and fresh, but filled out over two days. There’s a fine balance between pears, honeysuckle and lemons on one hand and almond meal and herbs & spices on the other. The texture and tight finish add a touch of authority. Really enjoyablewine, and easily paired with finger foods. 96 points. BUY.
Jacquart NV Brut Mosaïque – $60 at Cloudwine, or $50 at Winestar in a 3-pack. Some champagnes are shy, fragile creatures, built like fashion models. Others are heavy with oak and flexed muscles. This is one of those champagnes that hits all the right notes, from the first sip to the last. It’s pitch-perfect in a way that reminds me of Boccherini’s minuet, because its mellow notes will please large crowds. It’s rich, soft and generous, dry but not lean, and a joy to drink. It’s big (13%) yet doesn’t lack finesse, and it would make a great match with the right foods. 95 points.
Devaux Cuvee D Brut NV – $75 at Kemenys. This is a new one for me, but Huon Hooke loves it: ‘Straw and toasty aged characters; meringue and cream-slathered pavlova-base. Fluffy texture; soft as a pillow and rounded, filling the upper reaches of the mouth. Very rich. Concentration and power. Has plenty of liqueur which adds to its immediate charm, and broadens its market appeal. Still, lovely balance, style and character. 96 points.’
Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut NV – $84 at Kemenys. One of the best NVs around, and a personal favourite, but now selling for $100 most places. It was less than $80 not long ago.
Huon Hooke says it’s the wine he’s most likely to buy when looking for a good NV. Bob Campbell says: ‘Absolutely delicious wine with roasted apple, brioche and nutty flavours. Beautifully integrated and wonderfully harmonious wine with an intriguing array of subtle flavours supported by perfect acidity. 95 points.
Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV – $95 at Nicks. This is the champagne I’d buy if I had a $100 budget. It has depth of flavour and layers of complexity that you don’t often see until you get higher up the price scale. No wonder this wine is known as the poor man’s Krug. 97 points.
INTERESTING STUFF
Deep Dive: Searching for the Best Sparkling in Tasmania, by Young Gun of Wine
Cheat Sheet for champagne jargon, by yours truly. Fancy words to bamboozle your friends and impress your enemies with over the holiday break
2023 YGOW Awards Feature: Sparkling has Come of Age. A bit of fascinating history, and some brand new bubbles