As usual, an eclectic selection with some duds and some great bargains
Deep Woods Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – $13 at Winedirect. A style Margaret River has made its own, and it shows even in the cheaper examples. This is a commercial version with no rough edges and a touch of sweet fruit. Easy on the gums but we preferred the Fifth Leg (below). 90 points. BUY.
Devil’s Lair Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2013 – $13 at Dan M’s. This line is often discounted to below $10 by Woolworths and Coles. This is fresh, lively and pretty true to style, a real surprise packet. Better than all those cheap Kiwis. 91 points. BUY.
Spy Valley Riesling 2013 – $17 at Dan M’s. The 2012 was a more impressive wine. This one is kind of round and full and nice but lacks the acid backbone a fine Riesling needs to make it racy. 89 points. NOT CONVINCED.
Stonier Chardonnay 2013 – $19 at Dan M. Mornington Peninsula, fine-boned and delicate, perhaps too much so. It should fill out given time but it’s not very generous at present. 90 points. NOT CONVINCED.
de Iuliis Chardonnay – $16 at Bayfields. Another lean Chardy, this one I’d have picked as Semillon; it has that kind of neutral quality and subdued fruit. lacks life and life and generosity of flavour but it may be going through a phase. 89 points. NOT CONVINCED.
Neudorf Nelson Chardonnay 2012 – Given to us by a friend and not easy to find in Australia. Anyhow, it’s a $35 wine so it’s beyond our price frame. I expected it to shine like a beacon given the price, the rave reviews from across the Tasman, the illustrious history of this winery, and the Neudorf wines I’ve drunk over the years. Not so. It’s rich and packed with flavour but it’s all packed onto the mid palate, it lacks a strong line and length. A bit disappointing. 91 points
McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Chardonnay 2013 – $8.50 at Dan M’s. McWilliam’s try hard to make this a serious Chardy – hard to belive for this kind of money – and they succeed. There’s depth and complexity here, and a bit too much oak which will settle down over a year or so – yes, the wine even has a future. 89 points. BUY.
Evans & Tate Chardonnay 2013 – $10 at OurCellar. It’s drinkable, it’s inoffensive, it has no obvious faults, but it’s not much else. 87 points. NOT CONVINCED.
Zilzie Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2013 – $13 .. medium weight fruit and oak well balanced, some exotic notes here (oak or yeast?), interesting but not sure that it will please crowds. NOT CONVINCED. 88 points.
Teusner The Independent 2012 – $18 at MyCellars. This 50/50 Shiraz/Mataro is a favourite, but the 2012 follows the fruit bomb style of Kym’s other reds from that year. Jammy, mushy, overripe, lacks structure, line and length. I never thought I’d have write AVOID on one of Kym’s wines. Is he taking on too much? 86 points.
Taltarni SMV – Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier 2008 – $15 at Kemenys (buy 6 for $30, get 6 free). Big bold red from a hot year. Lots of flavour, layers of it, plus depth and length. The Mourvedre adds some dry herbs to the mix. 6 years old but still has years to go. 91+ points. BUY.
Evans & Tate Classic Cabernet Merlot 2012 – $10 at OurCellar. Even at this price, Margaret River delivers a wine of easy charm and varietal character. Easy drinking with pizzas, pasta dishes and BBQs. 88 points. BUY.
Wickhams Road Gippsland chardonnay 2013 – $16 at Winestar. Made by Franco d’Anna at Hoddles Creek. So delicate it sneaks up on you. Lovely balance and real finesse. Needs a year or 2 to fill out. 92+ points. BUY.
42 degrees South Pinot Noir 2012 – $20 at Triowine. We’re big fans of Frogmore Creek, and this is the winery’s second label. The 2008 was a really Burgundian Pinot, astounding for the money. The 2009 wasn’t quite up there, the 2010 even less so. Sadly, the 2012 follows the trend. It’s just a light red of no special merit. Can and should do much better. 88 points.
Alpha Crucis Titan Shiraz 2010 – $24 at Kemenys. This is a really smart, modern Shiraz from McLaren Vale. Medium bodied, full of bright fruits and lively flavours, a delight to drink. Made by Chalk Hill. 93 points. BUY.
Villacampa Roble Villacampa Tempranillo 2011 – $20 at Winelistaustralia. Blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon from Ribera Del Duero region in Spain. We’re not fans of Tempranillo but this one grabbed us. Down to earth, plenty of interesting flavours, more Gypsy Kings than Julio Iglesias. 93 points. BUY.
Zisola Sicilia Mazzei 2011 – Another wine given to us by friends, and hard to find (you may see it on a restaurant wine list). Made from Nero d’Avola in Sicily, reminded me of Mataro – dry and herbaceous with an earthy touch. Great with hearty food. 92.
Hidden Label Noble Semillon 2008 – $13 at Kemenys. No, it’s not Noble One under a Hidden Label – it’s Nugan Estate Cookoothama Darlington Point Botrytis Semillon 2008 – but it’s a lovely dessert wine that serves up orange rind and apricots and buttered toast complexity – all with excellent restraint, nothing overdone here. 94 points. BUY.
Hoddles Creek Pinot Gris 2013 – $18 at Boccaccio Cellars. Slightly pink, subdued nose, not much fruit on the palate or varietal definition, some minerals, nice texture/mouth feel. Did really excite us. 89+ points. NOT REALLY CONVINCED.
The St Clair Pinot Gris 2013 from New Zealand was our last hope in this group, but it fell over as well. Not a distinctive Pinot Gris, and not good enough for this winery or the asking price. 88 points. NOT CONVINCED. $17 at Dan M’s.
Young Meg Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris 2013 – $12 at ALDI. The maker of this PG chose early picking, a common way of making sure the wine retains freshness. It does that but at the expense of ripeness and flavour. Nice line of acid, and very little else. 85 points. AVOID.
Young Meg Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – $12 at ALDI. A pleasant surprise, this wine. Fresh, tight and tangy with the clean, herbaceous flavours in the cut grass spectrum. Good line and length. 90 Points. BUY.
Heggies Riesling 2013 – $18 at Winestar. We usually prefer the Pewsey Vale to the Heggies for its finer line of acid. This year, the Heggies isn’t even in the race. It lacks zip and life, offers some full ripe fruit but just doesn’t sing. 89 points. NOT CONVINCED.
