The good news is that you can still buy it in 2013
The Christmas and New Year break is a good time to revisit some of the top wines on our lists to make sure we got our recommendations right. The result is a short short list of wines we enjoyed and confirmed as outstanding bargains.
de Bortoli Deen Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon 2008
At $10.45 a half bottle at Dan M’s, my advice is: back up the ute. You won’t find a better sticky than this for less than $20. The colour is mid gold, the nose promises oranges and apricots, honey and cream. The palate delivers on the promise in a rich and luscious package, so full of flavor you don’t really need a dessert with it. It’s not the most complex of dessert wines but it’s 5 years old and ready to enjoy. I have no idea why it hasn’t sold out long ago – the wine has won four trophies and seven gold medals. Gets 8.5 out of 10 from me (96).
Mountadam High Eden Chardonnay 2010
The runner up for the bargain of the year, this is textbook Chardonnay but not of the fashionable Twiggy style. It’s full-flavoured, or at least it will be given another year or two. The problem is that it’s hard to keep your hands off it. The 500m high vineyard was planted in the early seventies by the late David Wynn and son Adam, and the vines are 40 years old now. Con Moshos – ex Petaluma – is in charge of winemaking and clearly equal to the task.
Huon Hooke wrote in the SMH that the Mountadam 2010 Chardonnay topped a tasting in World of Fine Wine magazine in March last year, conducted by Andrew Jefford, Anthony Rose and Jancis Robinson. The competition included our top Chardonnays: Cullen, Leeuwin Estate Art Series, Giaconda, Penfolds Yattarna, Tiers Vineyard, Coldstream Hills Reserve, By Farr, Pierro, Philip Shaw, Tyrrell’s Vat 47, Oakridge 864 and Shaw + Smith. The Yattarna 2008 came second to the Mountadam, and it’s about 5 times the price.
The 2010 vintage of this wine is now hard to find, especially at the old $25 price, but there’s some left at Jim’s Cellars and at Kemenys for $28 and $30 respectively. 14%.
Fraser Gallop Parterre Chardonnay 2011
This is a competent substitute for the Mountadam, also for just over $25. It scored 97 points in James Halliday’s Chardonnay Challenge 2012, and finished equal second in a field of 450 wines. Penfolds Yattarna 2008 was the only wine to score higher with 98 points. The Parterre is another class act, a touch more elegant than the Mountadam but with enough white peach and classy French oak to make me think of white Burgundy. Lovely now and years in front of it. $26 at MyCellars.
Pewsey Vale Riesling 2012
This was the stand-out bargain in what was a 10 out of 10 Riesling vintage in South Australia. Flowers, bath powder and fine minerals wrapped around a seemingly endless core of intense citrus fruit. 12.5%. We bought this for $13.75 at one stage. $15 at Winestar and Kemenys. 9 out of 10. The Jim Barry Riesling from the same year isn’t far behind for the same money, and the O’Leary Walker Watervale is another great 2012 for a few dollars more – $18 at Dan M’s.
Amberley Secret Lane Cabernet Merlot 2010
The red bargain of 2012 from Margaret River, and there’s still some left if you look hard enough. It won a gold in virtually every capital city wine show, and several trophies. It’s medium bodied but rich and supple, stacked with cassis and blackcurrant fruit, dried herbs and slate, all in perfect balance. 13.5%. Score: 8.5. $15 at Winelistaustralia.
Teusner Shiraz Mataro 2010
Outstanding example of this 50/50 blend from the Barossa, made from old vines, great flavor with gamey notes from the Mataro (Mourvèdre), perfect with roast beef or hearty casseroles. Grab some while you still can. Score: 8.5. 14.5%. $18, MyCellars
Hidden Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
The bargain Coonawarra Cabernet from a great red year. This is the Leconfield 2010 under a hidden label, for almost $10 less. Rich, ripe, opulent cassis fruit, real depth, length and great balance with polished tannins. Big at 14.5%. Score: 8.5. $18, Kemenys
Leasingham Bin 8 KS Riesling 2008
If Riesling has never been popular, late picked Riesling has become virtually invisible. This is a modern version of the John Vickery Spaetlese Rieslings of the late sixties. Many years in front of it. Super bargain if you like the style. $8, Dan M, $10 at Winestar.
ALL THE BEST FOR THE NEW YEAR
KIM
