It’s a logical question that wine lovers ask every year when a new Grange is released – what are the best wines I could buy for $800? We’ve dug deep to come up with a list of seriously good and great wines – here goes:
Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling 2019 – $37 at Nicks -The vines are over 40 years old by now, and have been producing great Rieslings for many years. Unsung heroes in many ways, not getting the kudos they deserve among our top Rieslings. The 2019 is big and rich (13.8%) – the Alsatians would be green with envy, but the balance is perfect. There are florals, some talc, ripe limes and apples backed by minerals, and wet stones on the very long line of fine acid. 96 points.
Jean Luc Mader Riesling Rosacker Grand Cru 2018 – $50 at Winestar. Made from fruit off 60-year-old vines from one of the most famous grand crus in Alsace. The small yields of the 2018 vintage have produced a wine of great intensity, rich citrus fruit and cool minerals. Tremendous depth of fruit and length. 97 points.
Tyrrell’s HVD Semillon 2013 – $26 at MyCellars. Some of the best Hunter Semillons trace their fruit to the old Hunter Valley Distillery vineyard – can you believe they once made brandy from these grapes? This is a classic, developing slowly, showing hints of butter and toast but only hints. Give it time. 96 points
Kooyong Beurrot Pinot Gris 2018 – $25 at Kemenys. In a nutshell, Pinot Gris for grown-ups. Dry and restrained, with apples and pears more savoury than sweet, minerals in the mix, all wrapped in a creamy texture. It’s different kind of Gris. 95 points.
Cullen Amber Wine 2018 – $39 at Different Drop. This is a new wine for me. From Vanya Cullen: ‘This new release of our Amber wine is a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc selected from our certified Biodynamic vineyard. The wine was left on the skins and fermented partially before being pressed off. The skin maceration went from 9 days to 44 days depending on the parcel. The fruit was processed in different vessels: open fermenters, closed tanks as well as amphorae. This explains some of the complexity and the many layers of this wine. We look at it being a natural step in creative as well as artisanal winemaking.
Dappled Appelation Chardonnay 2019 – $27 at the winery after you take 10% off your first order on a 6-pack. The discount code is ‘welcome’. This is one of the best chardies you can buy for < $50. Dappled was Halliday’s Best New Winery of 2018. The wine is handmade in small quantities, there’s not a lot of it made and most wine merchants have run out. It’s modern in style but avoids the grapefruit pith and the struck matches are under control. It’s crystalline, seamless, classy, nothing overdone, perfect pitch. Yarra Valley finesse with great purity and precision, and there’s no lack of flavour either. 96 points.
Oakridge Local Vineyard Series Henk Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 – $30 at Cloudwine. When it comes to wine at least, we’re still the lucky country. In France or the USA, wines of this and the Dappled’s caliber would be nudging 3 figures. This is a lot of Chardonnay for the money, as Gary from TWF shows in his review (at the link), but he gives it a mean score of 94. Winsor Dobson’s score of 96 points is closer to the mark in my view. It’s richer and fuller than most of Dave Bicknell’s cahrdies.
Turkey Flat Rosé 2020 – $20 at MyCellars where the freight is free for subscribers on any quantity. Consistently among the top Rosés down under, for the last 2 decades at least. Nails the style for those of us who want a bit more than strawberries and cream. Gary’s review at the link is spot on
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Yabby Lake Red Claw Pinot Noir 2018 – $23 at Kemenys. Made by Yabby Lake on the Mornington Peninsula, this is a terrific Pinot for the money, chock-full of goodies. The dark cherries are strong and joined by charcuterie and forest floor notes, plus some oak polish. There’s real strength and complexity here, and layers of flavour, but another year or two will see the wine rounded out. 94+ points, will be 95 down the track.
Rockburn Pinot Noir 2017 – $39 at Winesquare. Won the trophy for best Pinot at the NZ wine awards a year or two ago. It’s my idea of a Pinot Noir: seductive, rich and velvet soft. Lovely sweet fruits at the core here, good depth of flavour, one could wish for more forest floor elements and dank leaves, but it’s just a joyful Pinot that paired perfectly with duck breasts and caramelised red cabbage. 96 points.
Mount Pleasant Mount Henry Shiraz Pinot Noir 2017 – $28 at Kemenys. 70% Shiraz and 30% Pinot Noir. A one-off. I remember buying Mount Pleasant Shiraz / Pinot Noir blends back in the seventies, when wine writers wrote odes to Mount Pleasant and its reds. The reds I bought and cellared turned out universally ordinary, and the Pinot blends were downright awful.
Checking the reviews from Messrs Walsh and Butler at the link, I’m thinking about forgetting everything and buying some of this.
Mont-Redon Reserve Gigondas 2017 – $55 at Nicks. Gigondas is an appellation in the Southern Rhone Valley that makes rich reds. It’s a big Chateuneuf-du-Pape style at a better price. I haven’t tried this vintage – check Nicks’ review at the link (95 points).
Woodlands ‘Clementine’ Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot Malbec 2016 – $40 at Nicks. Clementine is Andrew Watson’s daughter, and the wine is a celebration. It’s 55% cabernet sauvignon, 16% malbec, 15% Merlot, 14% Petit Verdot , all matured in French oak (40% new) for 16 months. The fruit comes from the Brooks vineyard in Margaret River’s Willyabrup dress circle. It’s not a feminine wine but full-bodied and concentrated with plenty of tannin to keep it going for years. 96 points. Was Ray Jordan’s top red a couple of years ago.
Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 – $50 at Garnet Cellars. The 2006 and 2012 vintages are the best of this famous line in the last 15 years. The 2006 is rich and ripe and soft but not big; black berries and cassis fill the palate, and the texture is velvet. Outstanding Cabernet. 97 points.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (Cellar Release) – $40 at Winestar. A younger, tighter wine with terrific depth of fruit and great line and length. Typical great vintage black label: great drinking now but will be there for the next 20 years, showing a strong resemblance to Peter Pan. 97 points.
Lanson Brut Champagne Gold Label Vintage 2008 – $76 at DM’s. Better than it has any right to be, a rich champagne still on the ascent despite its 12 years. 9 years on lees shows in depth of flavour and and creamy texture. Biscuit and brioche notes in a seamless package, perfectly judged. Drink over the next 5 – 10 years. Bargain champagne. 96 points.
Chateau Guiraud 2016 – $100 at Nicks. This wine tends to be among the richest Sauternes. I haven’t tasted this vintage, so here’s J Suckling’s review. ‘A full-bodied young Sauternes with lots of rich sliced cooked apples and pears. All the same, this remains spicy and energetic with an abundance of dried mushrooms, walnuts and almonds on the finish. Botrytis character comes through nicely already here. 94-95 points.
The Madness of the Wine Market down under