And a few good whites that are easy on the pocket
We have a wide-ranging collection this month, of wines tasted the usual way and with friends on other occasions. There are no wines in the AVOID category this week, which is surprising.
BUY
Mike Press Chardonnay 2012 – $10 at Winestar
A good $10 Chardonnay for everyday drinking is always a tough ask, but Mike Press has supplied an emphatic answer: an unwooded Chardy with ripe, almost sweet fruit, plenty of authentic flavour and morish mouth feel. Depth and length are good as well, no shortcuts here.
Please note: at this price, you have to buy an unbroken dozen (fair enough). You can buy the wine in a mixed dozen at MyCellars for $11.
West Cape Howe Chardonnay 2011 – $11 at Dan M’s online or $12 at Vintage Cellars
If anything, this is even better than the Mike Press 2012. Wonderful nose of oatmeal and almonds, and some melon, stonefruit and cashew flavours on the palate. Really interesting to see the fruit in its pure form, without the fancy winemaking tricks and the oak treatment. Bargain.
La Senda de los Elephante Verdejo 2012 – $13 at Cremorne Cellars*
‘The way of the Elephant’ Verdelho is a fresh, delicate white that needs 6 -9 months to open up and reveal character. Uncommon restraint for a Spaniard. Not unlike a young Marsanne at present, mostly minerals and wet stones, good for cleaning up palates after oily Tapas.
*I’m doing my bit to support independent retailers, but the Annandale-Cremorne-Northbridge Cellars group doesn’t do itself any favours with a website that isn’t really searchable. Yes, there’s a SEARCH function but you won’t find this wine with it. Shopping here in person is a much better experience.
Donnybrook Clare Valley Riesling 2012 – $9 at GLUG
I wrote about David Farmer in last week’s Bargain Alert, how he’s set up shop as a ‘negociant’ in the Barossa, who buys and blends and bottles wine from small producers. The wines are sourced mostly from McLaren Vale, Barossa and Clare. It looks like David Farmer and his partner Ben Parker dash around these valleys and snap up batches of wine that are too small to promote, or too obscure or too offbeat to sell through traditional channels.
The Donnybrook is a good example of the impressive results achieved here: it’s a fairly typical flowers and limes Watervale Riesling from a great year. There’s plenty of flavour and depth here, plus a slight dip in the middle palate that time will fill in. Ridiculous price for a wine of this quality. I know I said we wouldn’t promote obscure labels, but these wines surprised me. Out of six wines, 3 were a BUY and 3 were good value. I’ve rarely had that kind of success just picking a mixed six pack from the shelves of a wine merchant.
The Harem Wines Layla Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2009 was $12. It’s now $14 but David has released the 2010 Layla at $12, and says it’s even better – take your pick here.
The 2009 is a big, bold and beautiful GSM with a ton of flavour, all smooth and integrated. It has years in front of it, unlike most GSMs which tend to be at their best in 3- 5 years. Serious bargain this, and very hard to put down. Reminded me of Kim Teusner’s Avatar, and that’s huge praise. Only 14.7% (some of David’s reds are 15.7). As you can see, this Layla really brought me to my knees. The price is silly – if Torbreck or Henschke had a wine like this, they’d give it a fancy name and ask $50 for it.
Langdorf Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2010 – $10 at GLUG
This wine is almost as good as the Layla, and just under $14%. It has a little more of that sweet Grenache fruit, and a little more elegance, and a ton of appeal that makes you want to drink more. Great with lamb.
Kilikanoon Kavel’s Flock Shiraz 2010 – $16 at Dan M’s
James Halliday’s winery of the year 2013, Killikanoon excels at big, ripe Clare reds. This one’s made for Dan Murphys, and it’s smack bang on target for big, juicy Clare Shiraz with lots of ripe red fruits and a sprinkle of pepper. Soft and plush enough to enjoy now, plenty of flavour and good length. 14.5%
Teusner The Riebke Shiraz 2011 – $18 at Dan M’s (please note that the 2012 is coming on stream)
I was perhaps a bit harsh on this red from one of my favourite makers last year. Tasted again, I found it had come together nicely, and offered lovely ripe red fruits on a bed of soft tannins. One for drinking sooner than the more profound 2010, but a great effort for the tough 2011 vintage. James Halliday says it ‘has more integrity to the expression of place and variety than any other ’11 Barossa Valley shiraz at this price, and needs no excuses. He scores it 92, and I agree.
2010 Bowen Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon – $25 at Nicks
This classy red in the ripe, modern Coonawarra style isn’t cheap, but I think it’s a good buy at this price ($26 – $30 elsewhere). There’s lovely cassis fruit here with a touch of cedar and a hint of mint, depth of flavour and fine, mouth-puckering tannins. Long finish and an elegance that belies the 14.5%. Huon H gives it 95 and I agree.
Not Convinced
Clos Clare Riesling 2012 – $22 at Cracka
Made by the Barry family in Clare (brothers Tom and Sam) from a small corner of the famous Floritra vineyard. Like the Jim Barry Lodge Riesling, it’s round and ripe and forward and will appeal to those who don’t like the searing acid of young Rieslings. I think the standard Jim Barry is a better wine and better value. Gets 94+ from Winefront, I’d give it 92+.
Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $18.50 at Wineonline
Big reputation for producing serious Kiwi savvy, but this year it follows the pattern we’ve seen with all the others: soft and fluffy, lacking strong varietal character, structure and bite. Not badly made but not worth the money.
Robert Oatley Signature Series Chardonnay 2012 – $17 at Dan M’s
Flawless commercial Chardonnay with all the right elements of stone fruit, a hint of citrus and a touch of light oak, but doesn’t really make you sit up and take notice. A bit too bland for my money, in other words. Made by ace winemaker Larry Cherubino and signed by Robert, no Bob (sorry, I’m really confused here) Oatley.
I have no idea where my friend Rod got the El Circulo Rioja from, I can’t find a local source for it. It’s a very smooth, polished red made mostly from Tempranillo, but has far more polish than depth IMHO.
Innocent Bystander Chardonnay 2011 – $20 at Dan M’s
Comes from the same Yarra Valley stable that makes the more expensive Giant Steps range. This is another pleasant enough Chardonnay, a modern example of treading that fine line between citrus and stone fruits. Well balanced and no doubt well-made with some hints of barrel fermentation, it didn’t excite me. For $20, I’d go for the Hoddles Creek 2011 or the Tarrawarra 2010 from the same area (see our Best Under $20 list)
Chalice Bridge The Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $14 at Kemenys
This wine from a newish Margaret River producer won the Trophy for Best Sauvignon Blanc at the 2013 Sydney show. Once again we can only scratch our heads in wonderment: it starts out quite well with some gooseberry and cut grass on the nose, followed on the palate by ripe fruit in the same spectrum. Then it does a vanishing act. No finish, just a hasty retreat. Doesn’t have the decency to say good bye. The Essenze and Clifford Bay from the Shaky Isles are better wines and cost less.
Gran Sasso La Bella Addormentata Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011 – $11.60 Cremorne Cellars
A well-priced red from Tuscany, not far from the famous Brunello di Montalcino region south-east of the bigger Chianti DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). The name sounds pretty romantic but this wine will not stir deep feelings in your breast. It’s easy on the gums, has a slight Italian accent, but not a lot of depth or character. A pleasant luncheon red if you feel like a change.
Kim
