Gourmet Traveller Wine Cabernet Tasting proves our premise

These GT Wine feature tastings are interesting events. Stand-up but well organised, lovely cheeses and bread, and less than $50. This one was held last Tuesday at Peter Bourne’s new facilities in Danks St Waterloo.

photos from www.broadsheet.com.au

He’s sharing space in Luke Mangan’s new MOJO restaurant, a dark industrial space straight out of Bladerunner. It holds as much attraction for cranky old romantics like me as a war zone, and the marketer in me cringes at the writing on the wall.

A lot of empty words there, and repeated too. What are we trying to say here? Good Food?

Gourmet Traveller Wine Tastings

Let’s get down to this customer’s experience. These tastings put more or less the same wines on the table that were judged in a feature article of the magazine. Some 40 wines, in this case, in long rows. This is not the way we like to judge wines – over several days, at leisure, with food and without, but …

The star performers picked by the GWT judges were (in descending order):

97        2009 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon $30

97        2009 Brands Laira One Seven One Cabernet Sauvignon $60

96        2010 Wirra Wirra Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon $60

96        2010 Deep Woods Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $60

96        2008 Voyager Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot $50

95        2010 Houghton Gladstones Cabernet Sauvignon $60

95        2008 Rosily The Cartographer Bordeaux blend $20

95        2010 Amelia Park Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $40

The bad news is that the 2009 Xanadu is in very short supply; winemakerschoice is the only source I can find. The good news is that that 2010 is easier to find, and the second good news is that I liked it even better. Both wines are polished performers in the medium body style (14%), but the 2010 is a touch more generous on the finish. The third good news is that you can buy it for $30 at Dan Murphy’s or Winestar, which makes it one of the bargains in this expensive line-up. My kind of wine, my kind of style. 95 points

Brand’s Laira One Seven One Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 has more medals on its chest than a tin-pot South American Dictator: 7 trophies 12 gold. It’s a classic example of wine judges falling for the obvious charms: layers of extracted ripe blackberry fruit, beams of cedary oak plus chocolate, tobacco and a hint of liquorice. Huge wine (14.8%), for subtlety look elsewhere. McLaren Vale meets Coonawarra. 91 points

Much the same comments apply to the Wirra Wirra Angelus 2010. This is a dressed up Dolly Parton style, meaning super ripe fruit supported by a corset of expensive oak but lacking genuine depth and structure. There’s not enough acid / tannin backbone to hold all the flesh together in the long term, I fear. 91 points

I’m not going to go through the line-up in this kind of detail, I just wanted to contrast the top three. It’s curious that the judges gave three such different styles, but then there were

Of the rest, I liked these best:

Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008, classic Margaret River Cab Merlot with depth and complexity. Benchmark style. 95 – $50 at Winestar

Yalumba Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, my kind of Coonawarra with plenty of cool Cabernet flavour and herbaceous complexity in a medium-bodied style. Maturing nicely. 95 – $40 at Nicks

Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, stylish and elegant with great depth,94+ RR $115

Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, a classic Cabernet with cool fruit and interesting herbs, restrained, built for the long haul. 93-94. RR $135

Deep Woods reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, lots of goodies, built for the long haul. 93+, RR $60

Lenton Brae Willyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, sweet fruit and cedary oak, complex and polished, showing some development. 93+, RR $60

Woodlands Margaret Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, real Bordeaux style of the austere kind, herbs and cedary oak, classy but needs a few years to reveal its charms. 92-94 $40 at Dan M

Rosily The Cartographer Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, herbs and spices in an elegant package, touch hollow on the finish. 93. $24 ex vineyard

A few disappointments:

Houghton Gladstones Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, lots ofsweet fruit wrapped in classy oak and polished tannins.Plenty of work has gone into this, but it lacks a bit of cohesion in my book. I’m the odd man out with 92 here, both JH and GW at the Winefront give it 97. RR $70

Majella Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, well-made wine with lots going for it, but too big for my liking. 92 – $30

Amelia Park Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, smooth, elegant and balanced but lacking a bit in the depth department. 92 RR $50

Vasse Felix Heytesbury, huge wine, looks elsewhere for elegance. Again I’m out on a limb here. I haven’t liked other recent Vasse Felix reds either. 91 – RR $90

Fraser Gallop Parterre Cabernet Merlot 2010, disappointing, ordinary finish. 91 $30

Mr Riggs Outpost Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, a big, clumsy Coonawarra Cabernet. 90 $20

What’s the Bottom Line?

These reds ranged from $20 to over $100, with most sitting in the middle at $50-70. Here’s the takeaway:

·         The most expensive wines were not the best

·         The expensive wines have a lot of work done but it doesn’t make them better

·         Some of the expensive wines are a few years old, and that’s an advantage

·         The best wine cost $30, and my next best 2 cost $40 and $50.

So grab some of the Xanadu 2010 if you like Margaret River Cabernets. 

Kim

South Australia’s delights in mid-winter

This set of wine reviews doesn’t follow our usual pattern. We spent a week in and around Adelaide, and tasted wines in various circumstances not as well controlled as is our norm. So we’ll go for a short tour instead, selecting the best experiences. 

On a sun-filled winter morning, Paxton’s winery was the perfect location among the green rolling hills of McLaren vale. I’ve written about the wines before: the AAA Shiraz Grenache and the Vale Cabernet Sauvignon are great examples of the more elegant McLaren Vale style red. The cellar door has a greater choice, of course, which includes a Marsanne and a Pinot Gris. Both are worth trying if you get the chance. The winery is certified biodynamic.

Samuel’s Gorge was another vineyard in a wonderful location not far from Paxtons. Justin McNamee left his winemaking job at Tatachilla in 2003 to set up this venture on the old Seaview site. It’s a great place to visit and sip wine in. The Grenache and the Mourvedre impressed us, but the prices are over our $25 limit. The view is free of course and Yes, that’s the sea you can see.

Leconfield is owned by Richard Hamilton of Hamilton Ewell fame, a competitor for Ben Ean Moselle some decades past. Richard is a surgeon who has built the McLaren Vale and Coonawarra wineries into a very successful business. He has decided to use the name Leconfield – he bought the vineyard from his uncle Syd who planted it as the umbrella name, and all the wines are made by the same team led by Paul Gordon. The Cellar door on the road from McLaren Vale to Willunga is very inviting.

The red wines we see in retail outlets are the 148 Merlot, the Shiraz and the Hutt Block Cabernet. These are all good wines in the more modern, more elegant mould of McLaren Vale Reds. The Shiraz won the trophy for the best Shiraz in last year’s Visy Shiraz challenge. Chairman of judges Gary Baldwin said balance, harmony and drinkability were key drivers in determining the top wines. He said the 2010 Richard Hamilton McLaren Vale Shiraz was ‘fresh, beautifully balanced, with wonderful primary fruit and a good, soft finish – just a spectacular wine.’

There are some other reds available at the winery but we liked the Merlot best, and the good news is that the 2011 Merlot is at least as good as the 2010. It’s really good news because Kemenys sell it under a Hidden Label for just $12, don’t ask us why. The Leconfield Merlot is another favourite, but will set you back $21.

The real surprises here were the whites: Rieslings from Coonawarra and McLaren Vale, and a Mr V (Mister V, result of a printer error) a full-bodied Marsanne, Roussanne & Viognier blend. The McLaren Vale Riesling was rounder and softer than the more austere Coonawarra, but both were good wines.

The Adelaide Hills area is even more picturesque, with more rolling hills and lots of interesting little villages once you get beyond the Disneyland caricature of a German village that is Hahndorf. There is a little German fare left here, but the best food we found was smoked mackerel at Harris Smokehouse on the main street. The best beer we found was the Bohemian Pilsener at Lobethal’s micro brewery.  Real German style.

The Lane (once called Starvedog Lane, now newly independent) is a vineyard that makes lovely wines in a gorgeous location.

Lois is a pretty obvious name, but the bubbly is a lovely, fluffy glass of effervescence.

The Barossa Valley was lush and green as well, and there’s a lot to see. For one, you get a real sense of history and family traditions when you visit some of the older wineries.

This is Chateau Tanunda, which used to make a lot of fine Brandy, became part of the Southcorp empire (along with parent company Seppelt) and has now been bought by the Geber family who’ve restored it to its former glory.

Kym Teusner’s operation is on a different level: a small winery that’s literally bursting at the seams. Kym is a workaholic who is making 20 or 30 wines under different labels, most from fruit sourced from selected growers.

The wines are great and often great value too. The Independent is a case in point: a Shiraz Mataro of serious quality for less than $20. The Dog Strangler is a lovely straight Mataro with a touch of Kym’s quirky wit.  The Avatar GSM has long been a favourite of ours, and it just squeezes in under our $25 ceiling.

Cheating a bit here – Teusner’s logo features an old vine, but this photo was taken at Penfolds Magill vineyard in Adelaide.

There’s no room for a cellar door at Teusner wines, but you can find them at the Artisans of the Barossa hangout down Light Pass Road at Angaston. Other Artisans include John Duval, Sons of Eden and Spinifex.

The Spinifex Fleur is a straight Roussanne, and it was far superior over dinner than the white Cote du Rhone from Guigal we thought might make a good benchmark. On recent form, Guigal seems to have lost it. The 2007 Cote du Rhone red was pretty ordinary and the 2009m wasn’t much better. Richard Hamilton’s Merlot was a plush, ripe but elegant red that’s a joy to drink. The Pfitzner Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills offered terrific fruit and zest but a touch of sweetness took away from it.

The Bethany Chardonnay was disappointing as well, and nowhere near as good as a previous bottle we had about 3-4 months ago. Just goes to show that Stelvin caps might’ve taken care of oxidation but not of bottle and batch variation. The Riposte The Sabre Pinot Noir 2010 had the same immediate appeal of the last bottle, but seemed a little short on complexity this time.

Only a few days before our visit, Peter Lehmann died at age 82. He was a living legend until then, admired by all who knew him. He was chief winemaker at Saltram/Stoneyfell before he set up on his own when new owners Dalgetty wanted to cut loose most of the contract growers during the wine glut of the early eighties. Peter called his company Masterson Wines after Sky Masterson, the big gambler in Damon Runyon’s New York stories.  He changed the name to his own a few years later. The little Gnadenfrei church at Marananga reminds us of the faithful Germans who settled the Barossa.

Bethany’s vineyards are as picturesque as the labels suggest, and situated at the end of Bethany Road on the way to the lookout at Mengler’s Hill. The Rieslings are true to type, with the 2009 a joy to drink already. The 2011 Chardonnay is a fine example of the elegant style. The reds are just as good, the whole operation says: quiet achiever. Some of the wines are best bought direct.

Charlie Melton’s wines are mostly out our $25 range, except for the Father In Law Shiraz 2011 and the Rose of Virginia. This is a full on wine, big and busty and round. 14.5% just like the big boys. Charlie was the first to see the potential of a southern Rhone blend in the Barossa, and the Nine Popes GSM has been with us for 2 decades or more now.

The reds are stylish and polished, just as their labels suggest. They feel luxurious and expensive, not unlike Penfolds upper end bin reds but more subtle.  The Grenache was our favourite. The tasting room is a pleasant sit-down affair in a comformtable room with a fireplace. You can choose your wine and your food from the restaurant here as well.

The Clare Valley is a 45 minute drive to the north of Gawler, and the vineyards always appear a bit unexpected and look out of place in the cattle and sheep country that surrounds them. Some would argue that this is where our greatest Rieslings come from, and I wouldn’t argue with them. Andrew Mitchell said the Clare Valley was blessed with the unpopularity of Riesling, meaning you can buy these great wines for a song.

Mitchell’s Watervale Riesling 2012 is made from 40-year old vines, which produce a Riesling of generous flavour and body. Paulett’s Rieslings from Polish Hill lean toward the other end of the spectrum: restrained and austere to the point of shyness in their youth. Pikes and Wilson’s Riesling are from the same sub-region, and tend toward elegance. The rest of the Clare Rieslings fall in between and, in 2012, they all show off this region to its best.

Andrew Mitchell also makes a great Semillon, and some cellar door specials plus some serious reds. You can buy some of these from the winery online  if you can’t find them at your favourite retailer.

We had a stunning Shiraz from Crabtree in our last review, and we found the Rieslings here just as good. Everything here is done by hand, from pruning to picking to winemaking and the quality shows.

O’Leary Walker is another favourite, a much bigger operation than the boutique Crabtree with a lovely cellar door sitting on a hill with views over the valley. Here you can choose from Watervale or Polish Hill Rieslings, but don’t overlook the reds – they made a great Cabernet and Shiraz in 2010, on the big side but built for the long haul. 1^st Choice has the Cabernet on special at $17. It is the lucky country …

Kim

Another mixed bag this week, but mostly good to very interesting, and more reds than whites to reflect the colder weather. One wine stood out like a beacon: Grant Burge Filsell Old Vine Barossa Shiraz 2010. This wine beat over 700 international Shiraz reds from France, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia to win the Greatest Shiraz in the World title from Winestar magazine.

Not sure it’s THAT good but it’s a very classy number. It’s a classy Shiraz with fragrant sweet fruit and seamless cedary oak. It has also depth and length and surprising finesse. And balance at 14%. Good to drink now but will improve for a few years. It’s a bit over our limit at $28.50 at Dan Murphy’s in a mixed half dozen, but it’s more than worth it. Read the Rest

BUY

Mount Eagle Eden Valley Riesling 2012 – $10 at GLUG

Terrific Eden Valley Riesling with all the class, depth and length of its more expensive neighbours. ‘This is another case of being able to drink the highest quality at a low price,’ says David Farmer. ‘It also vindicates our move to the Barossa Valley as you cannot do deals like this in a Sydney pub.’

Windy Peak Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2012 – $10 at Dan M’s

Soft and round, with ripe fruit the driver. Nothing too fancy but about as good a Chardy as $10 will buy. 

Evans & Tate Metricup Road Margaret River Chardonnay 2011 – $13.65 at Vintage Cellars

The big retailers drive us nuts, as I keep saying. I ducked into the local Vintage Cellars to buy some Hewitson Miss Harry 2010 GSM for $18 and found one bottle on the shelf at $23. Turns out the special price is an EOFY online special only, yes it said so in the fine print when I checked.

I checked on other options and found the E & T 2011 as a clearance item for $13.65 (single bottle). The website doesn’t know the 2011 but lists the 2010 for $18. Drive you nuts, they do.

I like the 2011 better than the 2010. There’s a bit more to it, some nice hints of white peaches and cashews, and a nice line of lemon acid running through it for balance and length. Not a huge amount of mid-palate flavour and depth, but I think it will grow with a year or two in bottle (it did after a day in the open one). I think for <$14 it’s a really good deal; at its normal price close to $20, I’d go for the Hoddles Creek.

Paul Jaboulet Aine Cotes du Rhone Parallele 45 2009 – $12 at McGuiresCellarsOnline

My mate Reg gave me a bottle of this, I loved it and searched everywhere. Cracka wanted $22 for it but didn’t have any (why do they pop up on every web search six times when they rarely have the wine in question, Google?)

A final desperate search turned up this super special in Brisbane. It’s $15 shipping for an AusPost e-parcel of six but it’s still worth it since this is almost the perfect CdR IMHO. Lovely red fruits with a touch of slate and a hint of dust. Medium bodied, elegant, seductive.

Madeleines Nangkita Vineyard Shiraz 2009 – $18 at Kemenys

Never heard of Madeleines? Neither had we. It used to be called Vincognita, and it’s a boutique winery in McLaren Vale with vineyards in several locations. The fruit for this wine came from the Nangkita vineyard on the Fleurieu Peninsula, and the wine is quite different from McLaren Vale or Barossa Shiraz. It’s more elegant, more fragrant and the fruit is more refined suggesting cooler climate origins. A gentle touch of warm oak (American?) rounds out this lovely wine. $13.9%

Mike Press Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012 – $13 at MyCellars

The wine is kind of compact, a bit like Mike is built, with a good concentration of red fruits on the middle palate and a touch of soft oak. It’s barely a year old but drinkable already, yet with plenty of headroom for growth. It’s not huge but it’s not exactly subtle either. Tyson Stelzer gives it 94 points, so does Campbell Mattinson at the Winefront. I saw it more as a 91/92 point wine, which is pretty good for the money. You can order direct from the winery as well, which makes sense if you live in Adelaide because the freight is minimal. 

Crabtree Watervale Shiraz 2010 – $20 at MyCellars

Another boutique winery, this time in the Clare Valley, bought in 2006 by a Sydney couple making a sea change. The winemaker is Kerry Thompson of Wines by KT fame; in the early naughties, she made the wines at Leasingham. Crabtree wines are small production, hand picked and handmade and it shows: this red is a knockout.

It has that extra quality that lifts it above most Aussie reds, the way the French oak is integrated with the lush fruit. This wine is seductive yet quite complex too; it’s Clare Shiraz in exceptionally capable hands. A lot of SA Shiraz is dense, chunky and lumpy IMHO, but this is different. It’s a terrific food wine, for one thing, perfect with a slow-cooked lamb shoulder. Could hold its own against any Shiraz several times its price. Real bargain. JH gives it 95, and I’ll raise him one point.

Rosabrook Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2011 – 2 for $22 at 1^st Choice Liquor

Pretty much par for the course Margaret River Cabernet Merlot, soft and plummy with some dried herbs thrown in, fine acid and a touch of drying tannin. Lacks a little in the depth department but that’s being really picky in an $11 wine. Bargain.

Cape Mentelle Cabernet Merlot ‘Trinders’ 2010 – $20 at Kemenys

I wasn’t impressed with the 2010 and was very much the odd man out at the time, yet I reckon 2011 was a superior vintage in the west. This wine is more proof. It’s hard to imagine a richer, more perfumed, more velvety red in a medium-bodied format, with depth and length and lots of interesting touches. There’s a bit of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot thrown in to make it more interesting. Dollars cheaper here than elsewhere. Another bargain.

NOT CONVINCED

Evans & Tate Metricup Road Margaret River Chardonnay 2010 – $16 at Winestar

Just a week ago I said this: ‘I’m prepared to stick my neck out on this one because we had the 2009 on the weekend, and I wish I’d bought more of it. The 2010 was rated 96 Points and awarded a Gold Medal at Royal Queensland last year, Bert Werden at Winestar tells us. This opened the door to the National Wine Show – ‘the Grand Final of wine shows.’ Here it won the top Gold Medal and the trophy for the best Chardonnay against all comers including the usual suspects at 4 times the price.’

I should’ve waited. This isn’t bad but it’s nowhere near as good as the 2009. Quite elegant, perhaps too much so as it’s bordering on bland. Good length, nice mouth feel but not a lot of flavour. Maybe it’ll fill out get a lot better. The 2009 improved over a year or so. Right now, I’m not convinced.

Madfish Bay Golden Turtle Chardonnay 2012 – $14.25 at Dan M’s

I didn’t think much of this last time I checked, then saw Gary Walsh at The Winefront give it a great rap – excellent Margaret River chardonnay at an exceptional price – and 92 point. Gary has a pretty sharp palate and doesn’t throw points around so I thought I’d better have another look. What I found was exactly the same as the first time around: no strong Chardonnay character, this could be a blend of other white grapes. Didn’t like the slightly sweet-and-sour oak either.

Pierre Amadieu Cotes du Rhone ‘Roulepiere’ 2010 – $20 at Cremorne Annadale Northbridge Cellars

I wanted to like this one, and it has pretty nice fruit and depth in a medium weight package. The problem is that there’s too much of that earthy character. I love hints of dust and slate but it’s burnt earth in this case. Shame.

Robert Oatley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2011 – $17 at MyCellars

This wine won a trophy & gold medal at the 2013 Decanter International Wine Challenge, for Best Australian Rhone Style. It does have a hint of that earthiness about it, but it’s not as good as the Paul Jaboulet above. You’d be hard pushed to guess where this wine came from, but it’s obvious that it was made by a skilful young Turk in the modern Aussie idiom. Larry Cherubino, I think , now under contract to Bob Oatley, or is it Robert – even the label is confused.

Karrawirra Barossa Valley Shiraz 2010 – $9 at GLUG

Just to prove that not every wine from David Farmer’s boutique set-up in the Barossa is a winner. This is big and ripe and without obvious faults. It’s also without charm: It’s a bit lumpy, a plodder not a dancer. IT’s OK for the modest price is the best I can say for it.

AVOID

Waipara Hills Pinot Gris 2012 – $15

After the tour de force that was the 2011, this was a real disappointment. If most of the 2012 KiWI Savvies lack acid and length and structure, this Pinot Gris is flabby. The flavour is all over the shop as well and not authentic by my definition of either the ripe Pinot Gris or the leaner Pinot Grigio style. This wine is a disaster from a winery that usually puts out pretty decent wines.

Kim

Had a wonderful reminder of the reason I started this website today. Tuesday morning is when Bert Werden from Winestar sends out his weekly newsletter with his best offers. If you’ve been around this website a bit, you know I’m a fan of Winestar, but I have to warn you that Bert is fond of the hard sell. I have written to him and complained about several wines he pushed that just weren’t up to scratch. The result is that he doesn’t talk to me any more. Since he runs a good business, I continue to support him, I just want to warn you not to fall for Bert’s hard sell.

The Sales Pitch

Today, it was this headline that caught my eye: A staggering 96/100 at Australia’s Biggest Wine Show (Gold Medal, Jimmy Watson Class) and just $11.99… (my comments in brackets)

It was scarcely believable the first time and probably less so now that we have been able to source a further, albeit smaller allocation of a 96 Point red, a Gold Medallist and finalist for the coveted Jimmy Watson Trophy at just $11.99 per bottle, by the case, with free delivery to most … it emanates from none other than St Hallett, one of the most prestigious names in the Barossa. As we have seen with previous offers, any wine with a Gold Medal and 96 Points at Australia’s biggest wine show, the 2012 Royal Melbourne really does grab ones attention.

(Got your attention? Now comes the best bit): To list the wines it beat home in its Jimmy Watson Shiraz Class would treble the size of this publication but for some bragging rights, it finished ahead of 2010 Shiraz retailing around $90-$100 per bottle from Peter Lehmann (Stonewell), Bird in Hand (Nest Egg Shiraz), Hardys (Eileen), Mollydooker (Carnival Of Love) and Yalumba (Yalumba The Octavius). … The perspective here is you can have a dozen bottles of our higher finishing feature wine delivered for not much more than a bottle of the others.

(Itching to get your order in yet? Wait, there’s more)

The St Hallett Gamekeepers Barossa Shiraz 2010 represents everything that is wonderful about Barossa Valley Shiraz in 2010 and there is no question the balance and poise this wine shows is what wowed the judges. It is immediately attractive with bright plummy and berry fruit with fragrant florals and chocolate, the lush and generous palate balanced by fine tannins and wonderful texture. Everything is where it should be in this excellent wine which should live a decade … That we can offer it for just $11.99 per bottle by the dozen – including freight for most of you – makes it another ‘back up the truck’ kind of bargain.

It’s well done, right? Yes, a bit wordy but well executed.Gets you in.

The Reality

One of our subscribers wrote this in an email (this wine has done the rounds before):

I bought a couple of dozen of the St Hallett Gamekeepers Barossa Shiraz 2010 last time it was offered, one case for me and one case for my wife’s 87 year old mother.

After sampling it, my wife said: ‘This is undrinkable, we can’t send it to my mother.’

‘We can use it for cooking,’ I replied.

‘No way,’ said my wife, ‘I enjoy my food too much to ruin it with this stuff.’

Ultimately her mother did get a case but last time we visited,  I noticed only one bottle had been consumed. I asked her why and she said: ‘I must be getting old. I just don’t enjoy wine like I used to.’

I also gave 6 bottles to a mate who is currently out of work and hard pressed to afford any wine. When I asked him what he thought of the St Hallett, he replied that the $4 Aldi red he had been drinking was a far better wine. ‘I really appreciate the gift,’ he said, ‘but frankly this is shit, it just tastes totally processed, like it was made in a lab by flavouring and colouring waste water from the vineyard.  Whatever, it just doesn’t taste like something actually made from real grapes.’

A footnote

I bought some St Halletts Gamekeepers reds very cheaply 18 months ago, and was astonished with the bottle variation. A bottle of 2009 Shiraz Grenache was very pleasant drinking, the next was not. Same with the Shiraz Cabernet 2009. The 2010s repeated the performance, going from good to awful.  I’ve tried the Shiraz, even listed it in my best under $10 when it was on special. Then I had another bottle and thought ‘industrial autoplonk’, just like our subscriber’s mate above.

I suspect St Hallett became a victim of its own marketing success. The company merged with Tatachilla to form Banksia Wines, JH tells us, and was then acquired by Lion Nathan. These days, the winery churns out vast quantities of Gamekeeper wines, bland whites and reds that are all over the shop. The judges at the Melbourne Show must’ve been victims of accumulated alcohol vapours. It’s not uncommon for the judges to get it wrong, mind you – here’s a reality check: Australian Wine Shows have a Bright Future? Not if the Past is anything to go by.

Kim

In the last couple of weeks, we’ve been checking out the latest bargains from Kemenys’ Hidden and Devils Ridge labels. Not sure why they do 2 different ranges of bargain wines under their own labels. The only difference is that all Devil’s Ridge wines are $10 and sometimes mention the winery, while the Hidden Labels vary in price and invite you to guess the origin.

We also bring you some of Australia’s great dessert wine bargains since the nights are getting colder. They’re great with fruits and nuts and dark chocolate. Go to the end of the post to read about them.

BUY

Devils Ridge Block `16 Riesling 2012 – $10 at Kemenys

The Polish Hill River moniker has amused us for years – is it a hill or a river? Either way, it’s a bargain Riesling from the Wilson winery that shows the delicacy of this area but is more forward than you’d expect, filling out and opening up over several days in bottle. Not as much lime and acid as the best wines from this area but utterly enjoyable.

Bethany Barossa Semillon 2010 – $15 at Dan M’s

This was a fascinating foil for the Tyrrells Belford 2007 (see below), in the sense that it had the clearer line and length of fine acid, and the development potential of a decade or more. Classic grassy, lemony young Semillon at this stage. Surprised with its finesse, given the Barossa origin, but Bethany is quietly making great wines down there. 2010 was a great year too.

Essenze Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $12.50 at Kemenys

Enjoyed another bottle of this and confirmed again that it’s one of the better 2012 Kiwi Savvies. Fresh and grassy with a hint of gooseberries and a very clean line of acid keeping it all on the straight and narrow. Much tighter structure than most of the soft and soggy 2012s. 

Please note: the Hidden Label Savvy in the photo has since sold out – them’s the breaks.

Pfitzner Eric’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 – $15 at Annandale Cremorne NorthbridgeCellars

James Halliday tells us that ‘The late Eric Pfitzner purchased and aggregated a number of small, subdivided farmlets to protect the beauty of the Piccadilly Valley from ugly rural development. His three sons inherited the vision, with the vineyard planted principally to chardonnay and pinot noir.’

This is not easy to find elsewhere but it’s a terrific modern style Chardonnay, fresh and vibrant with lovely integration of white peaches and gentle oak. Worth chasing.

Hoddles Creek Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2012 – $19 at MyCellars

Another winner from Franco d’Anna in the upper Yarra Valley. Lovely fruit in the white peach spectrum, creamy mouth feel from the classy oak that is seamlessly integrated. Already enjoyable but will be better in a couple of years. Can’t think of a better Chardonnay under $35.

Hidden label McLaren Vale Merlot 2011 – $12 at Kemenys

This turns out to be the Richard Hamilton Lot 148 Merlot, and it’s a beauty. The only clue to the wine’s identity was the Trophy for best Merlot at the Queensland show. More like a 50/50 Cabernet Merlot, not just simple plum compote. There’s lovely dark berry fruit here, and a hint of polished oak, and depth of flavour with elegance. Wonderful wine for the money. 

Devils Ridge Cabernet Merlot 2011 – $10 at Kemenys

A plush, velvety number from Margaret River that slips down the hatch with great ease – soft and cuddly but not too big. 14%. Just perfect for all those times you just want an easy-drinking, mouth-filling, satisfying red.

Devil’s Ridge Block 15 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 – $10 at Kemenys

More of the same here, but a touch longer and leaner, almost stylish. Margaret River again.

Hope Farm Mataro 2010

This is an eye-opener from GLUG, a convincing demonstration of the wonderful red Mataro/ Mourvèdre can produce in the Barossa. Sweet fruit and layers of silky flavours, all seamless and stylish. Lovely mouthfeel, soft but balanced. Great red with lamb. In France, this variety can make very tough reds and is known as Etrangle Chien (yes, dog strangler).

NOT CONVINCED

Houghtons White Classic 2012 – $6.50 at Kemenys

It doesn’t seem right to pick holes in a wine at this price, and it isn’t really that bad. If you don’t mind a bit of artifice, it’s OK to drink chilled on a hot day. We’d rather spend a couple of dollars more and buy a Montes Chardonnay from Chile.  

Tramin Pinot Grigio 2011 – was on special for $15 at Vintage Cellars

Sudtirol is an area on the southern Alps that Austria ceded to Italy after the last WW, so it’s now called Alto Adige. We were expecting a PG with a bit more bite, backbone and minerals than our ripe down under versions; instead we got more ripe pears and peaches. Shame.  

Tyrrells Belford Semillon 2007 – $24 at Kemenys

I’ve copped a fair bit of flak from my mates for my hard attitude to various Hunter Valley Semillons. The reason I chose this one is that it’s actually made from ripe fruit (12.6%). It’s the last of the Semillons picked by Tyrrells from the Belford vineyard near the New England Highway. This 6-year old wine proves my point that riper fruit makes better Semillons, but it tastes more like a Chardonnay. In that sense, it doesn’t quite convince. I think the Bethany Semillon is the better buy.

Mount Langi Cliff Edge Shiraz 2009 – $22 at MyCellars

This has been around for a while, despite James Halliday declaring it a great bargain and giving it 96 points. Yes, there’s a promising nose and nice soft, fragrant red berry fruit here but not a lot of complexity or length – the wine drops off the cliff instead of producing a decent finish. For my money, it simply lacks substance. There are better reds around for this money.

Bellarmine Pinot Noir 2012 – $18 at Kemenys

We admire this winery at Pemberton in WA which produces delicate boutique whites at modest prices , and we really wanted to like this wine. The nose promised classic red Burgundy (notes of dank leaves, forest floor and compost) but the palate failed to deliver on it. It lacks the sweet fruit we like to see in Pinot Noir, and the sharp line that keeps it in check. It’s short as well – three of us agreed on this, and the wine didn’t redeem itself over the following days. Again, Halliday sings its praises and rates it 95. We were disappointed.

Fortified Beauties

These are unique wines to Australia, mostly made from muscadelle grapes around Rutherglen in North-Eastern Victoria. The rest of the world hasn’t discovered these treasures yet, and they’re largely ignored in their home country. As a result, these treasures are serious bargains.

Morris Classic Tawny 500ml 500ml – $17 at Dan M’s

Morris Classic Liqueur Muscat 500mL – $17 at Dan M’s

Morris Classic Liqueur Tokay 500mL – $17 at Dan M’s

Buller Fine Old Tokay 750 ml – $18 at Dan M’s

And a few good whites that are easy on the pocket

We have a wide-ranging collection this month, of wines tasted the usual way and with friends on other occasions. There are no wines in the AVOID category this week, which is surprising.

BUY

Mike Press Chardonnay 2012 – $10 at Winestar

A good $10 Chardonnay for everyday drinking is always a tough ask, but Mike Press has supplied an emphatic answer: an unwooded Chardy with ripe, almost sweet fruit, plenty of authentic flavour and morish mouth feel. Depth and length are good as well, no shortcuts here.

Please note: at this price, you have to buy an unbroken dozen (fair enough). You can buy the wine in a mixed dozen at MyCellars for $11.

West Cape Howe Chardonnay 2011 – $11 at Dan M’s online or $12 at Vintage Cellars

If anything, this is even better than the Mike Press 2012. Wonderful  nose of oatmeal and almonds, and some melon, stonefruit and cashew flavours on the palate. Really interesting to see the fruit in its pure form, without the fancy winemaking tricks and the oak treatment. Bargain.

La Senda de los Elephante Verdejo 2012 – $13 at Cremorne Cellars*

‘The way of the Elephant’ Verdelho is a fresh, delicate white that needs 6 -9 months to open up and reveal character. Uncommon restraint for a Spaniard. Not unlike a young Marsanne at present, mostly minerals and wet stones, good for cleaning up palates after oily Tapas.

*I’m doing my bit to support independent retailers, but the Annandale-Cremorne-Northbridge Cellars group doesn’t do itself any favours with a website that isn’t really searchable. Yes, there’s a SEARCH function but you won’t find this wine with it. Shopping here in person is a much better experience.

Donnybrook Clare Valley Riesling 2012 – $9 at GLUG

I wrote about David Farmer in last week’s Bargain Alert, how he’s set up shop as a ‘negociant’ in the Barossa, who buys and blends and bottles wine from small producers. The wines are sourced mostly from McLaren Vale, Barossa and Clare. It looks like David Farmer and his partner Ben Parker dash around these valleys and snap up batches of wine that are too small to promote, or too obscure or too offbeat to sell through traditional channels.

The Donnybrook is a good example of the impressive results achieved here: it’s a fairly typical flowers and limes Watervale Riesling from a great year. There’s plenty of flavour and depth here, plus a slight dip in the middle palate that time will fill in. Ridiculous price for a wine of this quality. I know I said we wouldn’t promote obscure labels, but these wines surprised me. Out of six wines, 3 were a BUY and 3 were good value. I’ve rarely had that kind of success just picking a mixed six pack from the shelves of a wine merchant.

The Harem Wines Layla Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2009 was $12. It’s now $14 but David has released the 2010 Layla at $12, and says it’s even better – take your pick here.

The 2009 is a big, bold and beautiful GSM with a ton of flavour, all smooth and integrated. It has years in front of it, unlike most GSMs which tend to be at their best in 3- 5 years. Serious bargain this, and very hard to put down. Reminded me of Kim Teusner’s Avatar, and that’s huge praise. Only 14.7% (some of David’s reds are 15.7). As you can see, this Layla really brought me to my knees. The price is silly – if Torbreck or Henschke had a wine like this, they’d give it a fancy name and ask $50 for it.

Langdorf Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2010 – $10 at GLUG

This wine is almost as good as the Layla, and just under $14%. It has a little more of that sweet Grenache fruit, and a little more elegance, and a ton of appeal that makes you want to drink more. Great with lamb.

Kilikanoon Kavel’s Flock Shiraz 2010 – $16 at Dan M’s

James Halliday’s winery of the year 2013, Killikanoon excels at big, ripe Clare reds. This one’s made for Dan Murphys, and it’s smack bang on target for big, juicy Clare Shiraz with lots of ripe red fruits and a sprinkle of pepper. Soft and plush enough to enjoy now, plenty of flavour and good length. 14.5%

Teusner The Riebke Shiraz 2011 – $18 at Dan M’s (please note that the 2012 is coming on stream)

I was perhaps a bit harsh on this red from one of my favourite makers last year. Tasted again, I found it had come together nicely, and offered lovely ripe red fruits on a bed of soft tannins. One for drinking sooner than the more profound 2010, but a great effort for the tough 2011 vintage. James Halliday says it ‘has more integrity to the expression of place and variety than any other ’11 Barossa Valley shiraz at this price, and needs no excuses. He scores it 92, and I agree.

2010 Bowen Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon – $25 at Nicks

This classy red in the ripe, modern Coonawarra style isn’t cheap, but I think it’s a good buy at this price ($26 – $30 elsewhere). There’s lovely cassis fruit here with a touch of cedar and a hint of mint, depth of flavour and fine, mouth-puckering tannins. Long finish and an elegance that belies the 14.5%. Huon H gives it 95 and I agree.

Not Convinced

Clos Clare Riesling 2012 – $22 at Cracka

Made by the Barry family in Clare (brothers Tom and Sam) from a small corner of the famous Floritra vineyard. Like the Jim Barry Lodge Riesling, it’s round and ripe and forward and will appeal to those who don’t like the searing acid of young Rieslings. I think the standard Jim Barry is a better wine and better value. Gets 94+ from Winefront, I’d give it 92+.

Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $18.50 at Wineonline

Big reputation for producing serious Kiwi savvy, but this year it follows the pattern we’ve seen with all the others: soft and fluffy, lacking strong varietal character, structure and bite. Not badly made but not worth the money.

Robert Oatley Signature Series Chardonnay 2012 – $17 at Dan M’s

Flawless commercial Chardonnay with all the right elements of stone fruit, a hint of citrus and a touch of light oak, but doesn’t really make you sit up and take notice. A bit too bland for my money, in other words. Made by ace winemaker Larry Cherubino and signed by Robert, no Bob (sorry, I’m really confused here) Oatley.

I have no idea where my friend Rod got the El Circulo Rioja from, I can’t find a local source for it. It’s a very smooth, polished red made mostly from Tempranillo, but has far more polish than depth IMHO.

Innocent Bystander Chardonnay 2011 – $20 at Dan M’s

Comes from the same Yarra Valley stable that makes the more expensive Giant Steps range. This is another pleasant enough Chardonnay, a modern example of treading that fine line between citrus and stone fruits. Well balanced and no doubt well-made with some hints of barrel fermentation, it didn’t excite me. For $20, I’d go for the Hoddles Creek 2011 or the Tarrawarra 2010 from the same area (see our Best Under $20 list)

Chalice Bridge The Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $14 at Kemenys

This wine from a newish Margaret River producer won the Trophy for Best Sauvignon Blanc at the 2013 Sydney show. Once again we can only scratch our heads in wonderment: it starts out quite well with some gooseberry and cut grass on the nose, followed on the palate by ripe fruit in the same spectrum. Then it does a vanishing act. No finish, just a hasty retreat. Doesn’t have the decency to say good bye. The Essenze and Clifford Bay from the Shaky Isles are better wines and cost less.

Gran Sasso La Bella Addormentata Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011 – $11.60 Cremorne Cellars

A well-priced red from Tuscany, not far from the famous Brunello di Montalcino region south-east of the bigger Chianti DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). The name sounds pretty romantic but this wine will not stir deep feelings in your breast. It’s easy on the gums, has a slight Italian accent, but not a lot of depth or character. A pleasant luncheon red if you feel like a change.

Kim

As usual, an eclectic mix of wines for review. As usual, some disappointments and some surprises. The photos got a bit mixed up this time, my apologies.

BUY

Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $12 Dan M’s

These wines continue to reinforce the impression that 2012 was not a great vintage for this variety ion NZ, most wines lacking the acid backbone to keep them on the straight and narrow. This wine shows the right herbaceous characters to start with, then hints of that suspect soft drink tropical fruit on the middle palate, then sort of pulls itself together to get over the finish line with a degree of decorum. Got better with airing.

OK for $12 at but I can’t see how it won the Champion Sauvignon Blanc trophy and New World Champion Open White Wine trophy at the recent Air new Zealand Wine Awards.

Rosabrook Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $14 at 1^st Choice Liquor

It has all the acid backbone lacking in the 2012 Kiwi SBs, and authentic flavour. Great line and length plus varietal definition, just needs a year or more to really fill out. Will be great with food.

Margan Chardonnay 2012 – $14 at Cracka

Hunter Valley winery that produces decent wines at fair prices. This one treads the fine line between grapefruit and stone fruit. Given time, it will probably come around to the softer side of things, and add some cashews. Depth and length are there, good balance too. Price is right as well. $15 to $16 elsewhere.

Tar & Roses Pinot Grigio 2012 -$16 at Dan M’s

Don Lewis and Narelle King make the wines at Tar and Roses. Don made the wines for Mitchelton for decades before he started this venture. Nice restrained Pinot Grigio style. Only faint hints of pears, and a touch of fruit sweetness is contained by a good line of acid. No flab here, just a good style. Will fill out nicely over the next 12 months.

Dopff au Moulin Pinot Gris Reserve 2011 – $18 at Dan M’s

The flipside of the coin: rich, ripe, almost unctuous fruit with a distinct touch of sweetness. A wonderful wine in its style, almost oily in its richness, possibly a good bet with very ripe creamy cheeses. Most enjoyable on its own too.

Warburn Riverina Botrytis Semillon 2010 – $9.50 at Dan M’s

Not as rich as our favourite de Bortoli but with more length and acid on the finish. Less Botrytis but will fill out with a year or two. Very clean at the moment, and very sweet, just needs time. Good buying for under $10.

A.C.Byrne & Co Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 – $10 at ALDI

Much as I detest ALDI and what it stands for, I have to admit that this is a real surprise. Not great Coonawarra Cabernet but a lovely early drinking style with tons of sweet fruit. Soft, ripe, smooth and easy on the gums. Hard to fault for the money.

Hewitson Miss Harry 2010 – $20 at Dan M’s

This has all the character the ALDI wine lacks, a very distinctive GSM with strong Barossa fruit  given its head. Not much oak here to hold back the fruit, sweet Grenache dominating right now, with that hint of a hard edge that often goes with it. Needs a couple of years to settle down and will be better still.

NOT CONVINCED

Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011 – was $18 at Dan M’s

Big names are tough, and Virginia Wilcox was Gourmet Traveller’s winemaker of the year 2012.  So you give the wine plenty of time over several days to open up and show what it’s made of. Sadly, it never looked like a champ. There’s hot alcohol on the nose, which is not good. 14.5% is a bit more than I like for comfort. There’s a rank flavour on the palate that never really cleared up, and not enough classy fruit to make up for it. Nice line and length, but that’s hardly enough for a $20 wine. In the end, I used it for a beef stew.

Mitchell Sevenhill Cabernet Sauvignon 2006  $25 – Dan M’s

It is the 2006, no matter what Dan M’s website says, and it’s another 14.5% heavyweight – and it’s disappointing for different reasons. There’s a lot of tannin grip for a 7 year old wine here, but not enough of that wonderful Clare fruit to keep it in its place. Not sure that it will come good with time. I’m a big fan of Mitchell’s, but this is not a great buy given the price, even if it’s 7 years old.

Jim Barry Three Little Pigs Cabernet Shiraz Malbec 2010 -$19 at Dan M’s

‘Every year I take delivery of three little pigs,’says Peter Barry. ‘Whilst pigs have the most charming personality, I find their contribution to our family’s famous Christmas hams of most interest. This wine shows excellent depth of fruit and great structure. Perfect with BBQ spare ribs.’

Pigs with charm? To me, the wine lacked charm. It was kind of pleasant, well-balanced, but not really well sorted. All the right ingredients are there but they don’t really seem happy together. Didn’t grab me, and didn’t change much over several days.  I’m a big fan of Jim Barry’s Rieslings so I gave it every chance.

AVOID

Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – 10.50 at Kemenys

A standard bearer for the oceans of awful Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc being dumped on our shores. This wine gives us a brief a hint of the variety on the nose, before descending into a wishy washy mess on the palate that lacks class and structure and style. Dreadful stuff even at this price.

Toi Toi Marlborough Sauvigon Blanc 2012 – $9.50 at Dan M’s

Even less recognisable as a Savvy than the Stoneleigh if that’s possible, but has more length and depth. It doesn’t have a lot else going for it except that it’s wet, cool and alcoholic.

It was a good week for bargains, red and white

BUY

I’m using 100 point scores for a change, see how you like it.  

Thorn-Clarke Shotfire 2010 Barossa Cabernet Sauvigon 56% Shiraz 44% – $20 at Kemenys

What a label! Germans will love the precision here. The wine is a big, rich Barossa red that serves up ripe dark berries on a bed of polished French and American oak, all held in check with tight acid and fine tannins. Lots of complexity, depth of flavour, and good length. $14.5. 94 points.

At the Great Australian Red Competition 2012, this wine was the overall winner, beating a fancied field of reds many times its price.

·         Trophy – 2012 Great Australian Red – Overall winner

·         Trophy – 2012 Great Australian Red – Best Wine $20-$50

·         Gold at 2012 Concours Mondial

·         Gold at 2012 Shanghai International Wine Challenge

·         Gold at Barossa Wine Show 2011

Amberley Secret Lane Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2011 – $13 at Kemenys

Not quite the same bargain as the 2010, but still an attractive, soft, medium-bodied, Margaret River Cabernet Merlot. Very easy on the gums, and on the pocket. 14%. 92 points.

Evans and Tate Metricup Road Margaret River Chardonnay 2010 – $15 at Dan M’s

Old-fashioned Chardy with ripe fruit in the apricot spectrum (you see this in white Burgundies occasionally) and spicy oak. Not the smoothest of performers, but good with food, and good value if you like the style. $13%. 91 points.

O’Leary Walker Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 – $20 at 1st Choice

This is a Clare Cabernet with everything going for it: layers of cassis and dark berries and pencil shavings wrapped in a big but tight structure. It has depth and length and years ahead of it. Great now with steak, hard to put down even on its own. It’s also becoming hard to get hold of so grab some while you can. I like this even better than the Shotfire. $14.5%, 95 points.

Pewsey Vale Museum Release The Contours Riesling 2007 – $23 at Dan M’s

Made from a special patch of the oldest vines on the 50-year old vineyard, this is worth checking out. There’s an extra depth of flavour compared to the excellent standard 2007 PV, but it’s hardly showing any hints of its age. Clearly has a long way to go. I like it a lot but I prefer the standard 2006 which Dan M’s sold last year for $20. I should’ve taken my own advice and backed up the ute. 12.5%. 95 points.

Xanadu Chardonnay 2009, Margaret River – $22 at 1^st Choice  

This is put together like a more expensive wine, with barrel ferment and complex yeast characters. Interesting layers of flavour but not big and buttery, more savoury, great with food. 13.2%. 93 points.

Diamond Valley Blue Label Chardonnay 2010 – $18 at Dan M’s

Not as complex as the Xanadu or as robust as the Evans and Tate. Finer, smoother and rounder, it slips down the hatch with great ease. Well integrated, polished, with neither fruit nor oak dominating the partnership. 13%. 92 points.

Plantagenet Riesling 2012, Mount Barker – $19 at MyCellars, $20 at 1^st Choice

This is a change from the South Australian Rieslings we’re so fond of. More apples and green pears than limes, more minerals than bath powder. A hint of sweet fruit on the mid palate, followed by minerals and slate, all held together by a long, steely acid backbone. Wound tight like a new rope but should soften with a few years in bottle. 12.5%. 94 points.

Hidden Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 – $18 at Kemenys

This is Leconfield under a hidden label, and almost $10 cheaper incognito. I was a little less taken with this than I was 6 months ago. There’s lovely fruit and fine oak, elegance and length here despite the 14.5%, but a little less depth and density than the Shotfire and O’Leary Walker offer. Still a good BUY at $18, don’t get me wrong. 93 points.

Brookland Valley Estate Verse 1 Cabernet Merlot 2011 – was $9 at Dan M’s

Elegant, classy, fruit-driven, medium bodied, long and clean line. Phenomenal value, perfect BBQ, pasta or pizza red. Margaret River at a Riverine price. I had this open for almost a week, and it was still drinking well – either it’s a synthetic wine or it’s bloody well made. 92  points

Maverick Twins Cabernet Bordeaux Bland 2008

Maverick is a small winery in the Barossa that ‘handcrafts’ small quantities of red and white wine. Ron Brown, Jeremy Vogler and Adrian Bell own four vineyards in the Eden Valley and Barossa Valleys, with vines that are 40 to 140 years old.

This wine is a classic blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. There are blackberry and plum fruits here, supported by fine oak in the background. It’s a polished act with a lot of flavour and depth, but uncommon finesse for wines from this region. Terrific poise. 14%. $25 at Mosman Cellars, more at Winemakers Choice which stocks the full range. 95 points

It’s called Twins, and there is another wine in the range: a Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2009. This has a different flavour spectrum as you’d expect, and I find the polish doesn’t sit quite as well here. I prefer a bit more mongrel in my GSMs but this wine will appeal to those who prefer a medium bodied, refined kind of style. $23 at Dan M’s. 92 points

Not Convinced

A small group this week. The Shotfire’s little brother, the $15 Thorn Clarke Terra Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 2010 , won the under $20 group at the Great Aussie red comp, producing a rare double win by a single winery. There’s a family resemblance here but I found the little guy a bit clumsy and rough around the edges compared to big brother, so I’d suggest forking out the extra 5 bucks. 90 points

Chateau Tanunda Chorus Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2011– $13 at Dan M’s

This winery is a pillar of the Barossa Valley’s history, which fell out of various corporate raids and has now been restored by the Geber family. Wines are made along traditional and natural lines, and the Chorus range is the bottom end so to speak. I have to say it didn’t really sing for me – it’s fairly typical big-flavoured GSM but leaning a bit toward the hot pepper and spice side for my liking. Still, not bad value. $14. 89 points

The Fire Block Watervale Dry Riesling 2008 is a wine I picked up from Mosman Cellars for $15, apparently a one-off due to a cancelled export order. It started with a promising  aged Riesling nose which carried on to the palate, but the finish is a fairly abrupt muddle. 12%, 89 points.

No wines to AVOID this week, a first

Another look at ‘Mission Impossible’

Reg and I ‘selected a line-up of 10 Pinots Noir, plus two older ones to see how they age.

The top wines were

TarraWarra Yarra Valley Pinot Noir  2010 – $20 at Dan Ms or Winestar

42 ⁰ South Pinot Noir 2009, Tasmania – $22 at Dan Ms

Punt Road Emperor’s Prize Pinot Noir 2010, Yarra Valley – $14 at Dan M’s

(Lowburn Ferry Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 – over our $25 limit)

The group felt that the 2009 was the best of these, and one of the top 3 wines in the tasting. I agree but liked the 2008 just as much – both are very Burgundian in character, with the 2008 ready to drink. The 2010 was disappointing, just as I found the last time I checked. This is the basic label of Frogmore Creek in Tassie.

The Stonier was just as light and simple as in my last encounter, while the Yering Station Pinot was a touch better than I remembered. Still not a great Pinot in my view. The Emperor’s Prize from Punt Road was the standout bargain, not a great Pinot in my view but at least offering authentic flavours for the modest $14 price.

The Martinborough did not appeal to us, while the Ana Hera 2007 was still very much alive and kicking – this was always a big wine. It was also good value for $17 but Dan M has decided not to stock it any longer, and there seems to be no other source of supply.

The Lowburn Ferry 2010 is a $40 wine and a lovely Pinot Noir from Central Otago that’s still evolving. The Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2011 won the trophy for best Pinot Noir at the recent Sydney show, then the trophy for best red of show, then the trophy for best wine of show. Reg likes it better than I do and thinks it will improve with time. I think it’s too dry and herbaceous and too hard on the finish. Lacks succulence.Can’t understand the 3 trophies.

The sixfootsix Pinot didn’t find a lot of support but the TarraWarra was pretty much everyone’s favourite. That made me pretty happy since I’ve sung its praises and put my money where my mouth is.

Kim

The first wine below describes this lot of wines pretty well: a strange collection of good and bad, from ordinary to exotic. Been busy building the new website, so wines to review were grabbed here and there. I apologise for the photos – didn’t have the right camera with me half the time. Must work harder … yes!!

BUY

Amelia Park Mishmash Red 2010

Nice, easy-on-the gums Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc/Merlot) from a newish maker in Margaret River. Good flavour and length, not a lot depth but  great value for $12 at Kemenys. Perfect everyday drinking or BBQ red. 14%. Winemaker Jeremy Gordon has won 3 golds for this wine and plenty more for its big brother the Cabernet Merlot 2010. Love the label despite its attempt to detach itself.

Essenze Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012

We’ve been looking for a 2012 Savvy to get excited about but most of them are very forward. This one showed lovely, herbaceous but ripe fruit – gooseberry and cut grass – and fine acidity with good length and the promise of more development in the short term. $12.65 at Kemenys.

Red Claw Mornington Peninsula Sauvignon Blanc 2011

This is a classy, almost creamy Sauvignon Blanc (a touch of smart oak?) that’s hard to put down. Just a really satisfying drink, full of subtle flavours rather than the usual obvious ones – suggested rather than advertised. $19. Not easy to find as it’s sold out at most places. Still some left at Wine Selectors

The other wines here are older and were tasted with friends over dinner. The Redgate 2009 was the best Cabernet Franc I’ve tasted in a long while but it’s a $40 wine more’s the shame. The Tempus Two was a let-down.

Villa Wolf Pinot Gris 2011

The Villa Wolf label is one of the many in the portfolio of the Dr Loosen Stable. It’s used for a value-priced line of varietal wines that combines estate-grown fruit with fruit from contract growers. This one comes from the Pfalz – the Palatinate in Anglais – just across the Rhein from Alsace. This is the sunniest corner in all of Germany and is undergoing a major change up from its humble, bulk-producing origins.

Pinot Gris or Grauburgunder was first identified here as a distinct variety, and this is an interesting example: rich and ripe and mouthfilling and perhaps lacking a touch more acid to balance the ripe pear and ginger sweetness. Still, a nice change. $19 at Dan M’s.

Domaine Chandon Chardonnay 2010

Another class act. Didn’t quite see it that way a year ago, thought it was too lean and skinny and lemony. It’s come around with more stonefruit and cashews. It’s elegant but with plenty of flavour and length. Made by the well-known bubbly people in the Yarra Valley. No longer in the shops, not sure the 2011 is in the same class but Halliday gives it 94. 12.5%. $20 at Winestar.

Hidden Label Central Ranges Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011

This wine hails from around Orange and offers plenty of juicy, zesty flavour somewhere between passionfruit and lemons. Not recognisable as a Sauvignon Blanc Semillon but an enjoyable, lively white for $10 at Kemenys. 

NOT CONVINCED

Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2011

This wine won the trophy for best Pinot Noir at the recent Sydney Show, then went on to win best red wine of the show, and was then crowned best wine of the whole show. So we bought some even though it’s outside our $25 ballpark, thinking just over $30 is pretty cheap for a great Pinot. Sadly, this wine presents more proof that neither gongs nor price provide any guarantee of quality.

Reg likes this better than I do, thinks it will improve. I’m not so sure. It’s all wet leaves and dry herbs and stalks right now, complex but lacking depth and ripe fruit despite its 13.5%. Finishes long but with that touch of hardness you often find in this variety. Lacks charm right now. The fact that it’s still in the shops suggests that I’m not the only one who’s not convinced.  $31.50 at 1^st Choice .

Hill-Smith Estate Eden Valley Chardonnay 2010

The Hill-Smiths are the family behind Yalumba, so this looked like a potential winner. There’s good fruit here and quality French oak, and the wine was clearly given a lot of attention in the winery. The result is interesting but lacks harmony. Given that the wine is 3 years old, it doubtful that the various elements clamouring for attention will make peace in the short term. 13%. $18 at Kemenys.

Kemenys Hidden  Label Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2008

This wine had more appeal a year ago. It has dried out since, which can happen with wines. If you bought any of this, drink it sooner rather than later. The Chandon above went the other way – just goes to show how hard it is to assess wines and tell their future.

McLeod Gippsland Chardonnay 2010

Mount Macleod’s three vineyard sites are in the Leongatha region of Gippsland, where free-draining ironstone soils prevail. Mark Mathews is the owner/winemaker, and he brings a ton of experience to the job. He and his wife clearly care for their environment as they’ve converted the main chardonnay block to certified organic, and are rehabilitating around 8ha of wetlands with the local catchment authority.

All that said, I wish I could’ve liked the wine better but it leans far over to the lean grapefruit side of the spectrum for my taste. Very well-made if that style’s your cup of tea, and good value for a boutique Chardy at $17 at Dan M’s.

Rosemount Regional Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2010

This line is being run out either by Dan M’or by Rosemount/TWE. Going for 13, I thought this red from a good year and good area might be a bargain but it’s vin ordinaire. Perhaps a bit harsh that – it’s an OK drink and easy on the gums but without great character or distinction. $12 at Dan M’s.

Le Moire Annibale 2010

A wine from Calabria in Italy imported by some enterprising soul. It’s made from the local magliocco variety plus 20% sangiovese. The interesting name comes from the legend that Hannibal drank this wine and announced that he’d discovered the best-kept secret in Rome. After that build-up, the wine was a real let-down: it’s a simple soul under that evocative label, more local peasant than Phoenician warrior, and not great value for $20 at Bonds Corner or Banks Fine Wine.

Turners Crossing Shiraz Viognier 2010

The Turners Crossing from Bendigo also comes with a decent pedigree. Reg likes this wine (he loves big reds) but I found it too big and too alcoholic. A lump of a red that just lacks elegance and drinking appeal to my mind. 14.5%. 95 points from Halliday, so it may be just my dislike of sledgehammer reds. $18 at Kemenys.

Deen de Bortoli Vat 1 Durif 2010

Some of the wines in the Deen de Bortoli Vat line are bargains, the Botrytis Semillon for example, and the Shiraz. The Durif has a stack of medals and good reviews to its credit. It’s lighter in body than I expected, which but I found it pretty underwhelming, a bit simple, not recognisable as Durif, and a bit of a muddle on the finish. $10.50 at Dan M’s

Vintage Cellars Chalkboard Cotes du Rhone 2011

A very light Cote-du-Rhone that slips down the hatch without leaving much of an impression. Light red for summer picnics. Won’t last until next summer, though. 13.5%. $10 at Vintage Cellars.

AVOID

Vintage Cellars Chalkboard Semillon 2012

This wine is made by Tyrrells. It drew loads of attention to itself when it won two trophies at last year’s Hunter valley show. Rave reviews followed. I didn’t like it a bit, finding unripe fruit and some artificial fruit sweetness there. When I’m out by a mile on a wine, I like to recheck my bearings a few months later. It turns out that the wine has lost its early zip and turned flabby. The other unpleasant elements are still there. $11 at 1^st Choice. No longer listed on the website so stocks are running out. No great loss.

Stoneleigh Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Bastard Marlborough savvy, made in ocean-like quantities and lapped up by Aussie punters with gusto. Fruit cocktail with more resemblance to alcopops than wine. $12 at Kemenys. Maybe I’m being a bit harsh on this wine but do yourselves a favour and buy the Essenze for a dollar more from the same place – $12 at Kemenys.

Hardy’s OOMOO GSM 2010

I described this wine as undrinkable a year ago, and was curious if it had had made amends. Sadly, it has not. Hardy’s flogged it all off through Grays Online and other bulk channels long ago so it’s no longer an issue. Except for the bottles I’m stuck with – use it for cooking at your peril, I mean it. Down the sink is the only solution.

Kim