If you’ve missed out on these beauties, here are some shortcuts to Nirvana

Old Rieslings are among my all-time favourite wines, and I’d argue that they represent a unique Australian wine style. New Zealand makes outstanding Rieslings too but we don’t see many of them on this side of the Tasman. Alsace is another option for full-bodied, dry Rieslings that age well, but the best of Alsace are expensive. German Rieslings are different on the whole, more delicate, less ripe, less dry, and much less affordable.

The great thing about Aussie Rieslings is that they’re cheap. In recent months I’ve bought Jim Barry’s Watervale Riesling 2012 for less than $13, O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2012 and Pewsey Vale 2012 for less than $15, and Heggies 2012 for just over $16. These are commercial Rieslings of terrific quality, they’re absolute bargains and they’ll all improve for many years.

Watch them grow

In the first 12 months of their lives, good Aussie Rieslings are mouthfuls of lime juice and searing acid. By 18 months to 3 years of age, they fill out on the palate and the acid softens. Over the years that follow, they develop bottle-age characters that make us think of buttered toast and honey in their ultimate expression. The fruit is still there but changes in character – from limes more to oranges to apricots – and intensity. It mellows.

Rieslings and Food

Young Rieslings make great aperitifs, and are a perfect match with roast chicken. Older ones go well with all kinds of poultry including duck. Dry young Rieslings also cut through Chinese food with great effect, much the way Italian dry whites cut the oiliness in some of their dishes. Other wine buffs like young, crisp Rieslings with Seafood. Old Rieslings even go well with aged hard cheeses like old Gouda or Parmesan. I like drinking them on their own too.

What to look for

The Clare and Eden Valleys are the places where our best Rieslings have long come from. Yes, there are great Riesling made in Tasmania, southern Victoria and the Great Southern over west, but the top wines of this style are still made by Grosset, Paulett, Mitchell, Jim Barry, O’Leary Walker, Yalumba and Leo Buring in the Clare and Eden Valleys.

With young Rieslings, I look for ripe fruit: 12.5 -13% alcohol is a good indictor, and optimal for the full-bodied Aussie style. Good Rieslings retain their acid when fully ripe, in contrast to Hunter Semillons which do not (that’s why they’re always picked long before they’re ripe, at 10.5 – 11% alcohol). Like German Rieslings from an ordinary year, Hunter Semillons carry those unripe flavours of green apples and sour milk until old age obscures them. They’re no fun to drink young in my view, but young Rieslings are.

You don’t have to wait a decade

Let’s say you develop a liking for this unique Aussie style, and you wish you’d laid some of these down years ago. 5 or 7 years is a good start, but some Rieslings take 12 to 15 years to show their full potential. Lindemans used to hold some of their Leo Buring Rieslings back in the days before Fosters screwed them up, and release them at various stages. These days, Dan Murphy’s Cellar Release Program is the only source of older Rieslings I know of. Here’s are some of the aged Rieslings under $25 currently on offer:

St Helga Riesling 2006 – $19

Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling 2006 – $20

Heggies Riesling 2006 – $23

Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2007 – $17

Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling 2007 – $21

Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling 2007 – $21

Richmond Grove Limited Release Riesling 2007 – $21

Pewsey Vale Riesling 2007 – $21

Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling 2007 – $23

There are still a few Rieslings left from the great 2006 vintage and, which fall within our $25 limit. I suspect these wonderful wines will soon disappear, so be quick. 2007s are just a notch behind the 2006s, but very enjoyable. The Jim Barry 2007 is the standout bargain but it needs a few more years to show its best. They will all go on improving, but most of them are already filling out nicely and building those toasty, buttery flavours we enjoy in aged Rieslings.

Kim

2012 was the best Riesling vintage for a decade – 2013 was the hottest summer on record

There were many days when I preferred cold beer to chilled white wine, but there were late evening picnics at the beach where Riesling improved the flavour of cold chicken. This is one of the best-kept secrets in matching food and wine: roast chicken and Aussie Riesling. Wine and food scribes always talk about eating oysters and shellfish with young Rieslings, because of their lime juice and mineral flavours.

They’re wrong in my view: there’s too much fruit even in our young Rieslings, which perfectly complements the sweet meat of chicken and even light cuts of pork. So does the citrus character of the fruit. Older Rieslings develop more flavour so the match works even with richer chicken dishes. If people only knew that Riesling and roast chicken are a match made in heaven, the price would go through the roof. As it is, Rieslings resolutely remain super bargains.

BUY

I had a chance to taste two members of the same family: The Pewsey Vale and the Heggies Rieslings, both from 2012, both from Eden Valley. The family is Yalumba, which decided long ago to market these wines under their individual vineyard labels. An interesting branding strategy, but it worked. As you can see, both wines are even made by different winemakers.

I prefer the Pewsey Vale because it has a bit more zip and fresh fruit and fine acid to carry it. The Heggies is a bit rounder and a touch more forward. There’s not that much in it – as you can see, residual sugar is the only real difference. That explains why the Heggies is more forward, but I can’t see it lasting 15 years. The Pewsey Vale will last that long. It’s the better wine, even though it’s a couple of dollars cheaper. I’ve bought some of this wine for less than $14 a bottle, which is ridiculous. At present, they’re $15 and $17 respectively at Kemenys.

Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2007 – $15 at Dan M’s

Found this by accident, really, available online only. This wine is in between two stages, and a bit unsettled. It’s no longer young but retains some fresh acid on the finish, and it’s also developing aged characters – that whiff of kero and hair oil old Rieslings get. I think it’ll be a good one when it settles down in a couple of years or three. Again, the price is ridiculous. Not sure how much is left at Dan M’s.

I also confirmed in my own mind what a lovely wine and great bargain the 2012 is. At present it’s going for less than $13 at Kemenys and Dan M’s.

Nugan Estate King Valley Frasca’s Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 – $17 at Dan M’s

I like the 2009, and I like the 2010 for the same reasons: it’s a well-made, it’s three years old and on the way to settling down and filling out. Good chardonnays need 5 years or more to show their true colours, great white Burgundies need 10. This one avoids the current affection of wine judges for grapefruit and lemon curd and leans instead toward stone fruit like white peaches and nectarines, touched up with some spicy oak. Give it a couple of years to settle down, and it will do you proud.

dA Chardonnay Limoux Reserve 2011 – $15 at Dan M’s

This is another good Chardonnay, a bit more forward and ready to enjoy. Cashews and toasty oak, all well put together and quite enjoyable. From the Languedoc, the Riverina of France, claims an Appelation Origine Controllee. It’s well-made and decent value too.

Wither Hills Chardonnay 2011 – $14 at Kemenys

It’s unusual for me to strike a group of three Chardonnays that are all good buys. Yes, it’s the 2011 W Hills I’m reviewing but I lost the bottle so the photo is of the 2010. It was $12 at Dan M’s the day I bought it, but has since jumped back to $15. This is a really fresh, juicy, vibrant kind of Chardy. There’s just a hint of grapefruit here before we savour white peach and a touch of French oak and a hint of cashews. There’s a nice, clean line of acidity running through the wine, and I found it very appealing. Not a huge amount of complexity here but just lovely, lively drinking.

Tahbilk 2007 Marsanne – $16 at Dan M’s (2007 Cellar release)

Another bargain white that Tahbilk has been making forever from vines planted in1927. Marsanne is a variety grown mostly in the southern Rhone Valley where it is blended with Roussanne and other varieties. When it’s young, this wine is a fresh and clean summer white that does go with shellfish. After a few years it develops lovely toasty, honeysuckle characters, but this one isn’t quite there yet. Give it another year or five.

Paul Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone Parallele 45 Rouge 2009 – $17 Cracka 

My mate Reg threw this one into the ring, saying it was a good drop, and I enjoyed it with a small  lamb roast. Easily recognisable as a Cote-du-Rhone from its dusty, slaty characters, it shows elegance, balance and length. Again not a complex wine but I’d be happy to drink it often. It’s a bit hard to track down, this one. Never bought anything from this stupid Cracka outfit that clutters up the search engine results – anybody bought wine from them?

Paulett’s Polish Hill River Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot 2007 – $20 at Dan M’s

The Polish Hill River thing gets me every time – is it a hill or a river? I guess it’s both. This sub region of the Clare (Watervale and Sevenhill are others) has been made famous by Jeffrey Grosset and his fabulous Rieslings, which are way beyond our $25 threshold. Paulette is well-known but makes lovely, delicate Rieslings here as well, and reds like this elegant number which is Australian in flavour and French in its elegance. Nice change if you like your reds with a bit of finesse.

Fraser Gallop Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $20 at 1^st Choice

At one stage last year, they sold this for less than $15.This SSB from a boutique Margaret River maker got rave reviews (96 from Halliday among others) and I like it too, I just don’t think it’s developed the way I expected. Lots of flavour, for sure, but not showing as much finesse or restraint as the West Cape Howe below. Great food wine, though. Dan M has the 2012 for $19.

Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $12 at Kemenys

This wine didn’t convince a year ago or more so it was surprise how it’s flourished. Can happen with SB in a good vintage, and 2011 was one of those (2012 is much more forward). The Oyster Bay 2011 did the same thing. More herbaceous than I recall, quite full-flavoured now but all held in balance. Great with fried salmon.

West Cape Howe Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – $15 at 1^st Choice

Bought this a year ago before 1^st Choice still offered sharp prices on lots of good wines. As I’ve written elsewhere, Coles tossed in the towel last year in its battle with Woolworth’s, at least on the wine front. That 1^st Choice still has the 2010 on the shelf just goes to show how few people know this medium-sized winery in the Great Southern region of Western Australia.

This wine is fine and restrained and developing slowly, because of the Semillon component. Grass, herbs and minerals, perfect with delicate seafood. The current 2012 that’s around for the same money might be a bit more forward from what I’ve seen of the vintage over there. They also make a good straight Sauvignon Blanc and some great reds as well. Winery is top-rated by James Halliday (5 red stars).

NOT CONVINCED

Vavasour Sauvignon Blanc 2011 –$12 at Dan M’s (for the 2012)

I’ve yet to be convinced by one of these. 2011 was a great year for SB in New Zealand but this one is a flabby, non-descript white with some tropical fruit. A slouch with no class or posture. Maybe a bit harsh, that. I’m not tempted to buy the 2012 but it’s cheap at Dan M’s this week.

Printhie Mountain Range Pinot Gris 2011 – $18 at Dan M’s

I liked the Printhie Pinot Gris 2010 from Orange, and the label, but the 2011 is not in the same class. The ripeness surprises, given the wet year, and it lacks the acid to hold it together. She’s a bit like a woman who’s put on some weight and hasn’t yet had her dresses altered. Might’ve been better 12 months ago – Pinot Gris can develop at breakneck speed, so don’t keep it too long. As an aside, Kemenys sell these whines for less than $14, but only have the 2011 Chardonnay in stock (not tasted, the 2010 was OK).

Reserve Martinborough Pinot Noir 2010 – $20 at the Pott’s Point Deli next to Woolworths on McLeay

This is a lovely deli with some interesting wines, and thjis one caught my eye. The enthusiastic boys there said it was a bargain but I have to disagree. It’s pleasant enough with soft, ripe fruit nodding vaguely in the direction of Pinot Noir, but it lacks flavour and conviction and the depth and backbone to keep it in shape, really. It’s drinkable but there are better reds out there for the money.

Madfish Bay Margaret River Golden Turtle Shiraz 2010 – Dan M’s $14

Another disappointment in this new range from Howard park Wines. The Cabernet Merlot is a steal but this is a clumsy red devoid of charm and appeal. Barely recognisable as Shiraz, certainly not from Margaret River – I would’ve picked it as a Hunter from an ordinary year or maker.

XANADU Next of Kin Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 – $15 at Bonds Corner Fine Wines

Much the same comments as for the Golden Turtle Shiraz, strange as it is. Not readily recognisable as Cabernet or Margaret River, clumsy and unappealing. No major faults really, just not much chop. The 2010 is in the shops now and gets a decent review and 91 points from the boys at Winefront. The 2010 Shiraz under the same label is a winner, btw.

AVOID

Goundrey Homestead 2012 – $10 at Dan Murphys

The 2011 was a winner, a fresh, uncomplicated mouthful of grapes, but this is rubbish, sweet lolly water, unrecognisable as Chardonnay, unstructured, unconvincing at half the price. There’s no justification for putting out wine this bad, and BRL-Hardies ought to hang its corporate head in shame. This goes down with the awful, undrinkable OOMOO GSM 2010 on my shortlist of worst wines ever tasted.

M.Chapoutier Luberon 2011 – $13 at Dan M’s

These minor Rhone reds can be nice drinking but not this one. It starts in a promising way but soon reveals unpleasant, sweaty and swampy characters you don’t want to associate with. A low blow from the usually reliable Chapoutier.

Turners Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 – $20 at 1^st Choice

Turners Crossing is a highly rated winery in the Bendigo region, and the wines are made by well-regarded Sergio Carlei who also has a winery in the Yarra Valley. The Shiraz Viognier is the more well-known of the two reds under this label, and I like the 2008. This Cabernet is a mess, however, with a green vegetative character (I thought it might be mint on the nose initially) spoiling the show. It got worse over a couple of days – not really drinkable. Maybe this was a bad bottle?

KIM

This wonderland seems to exert a powerful effect on all those who go near it. This is more than wine, clearly: what we have here is poetry and magic and fairy dust.

‘This is a highly impressive partnership,’ James Halliday tells us in his Wine Companion, ‘between Peggy and Carl Lindner (40%), Elena and Zar Brooks (40%), and Fiona and Brad Rey (20%). It brings together vineyards spread across the Adelaide Hills, Eden Valley, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley and Fleurieu Peninsula. Elena is not only the beautiful wife of industry dilettante Zar, but also an exceptionally gifted winemaker.’

We’re off to a good start. This Riesling gets 96 points from Gary Walsh at the Winefront, who reports ‘remarkable depth and concentration. Lime, almost a lemon curd flavour and perhaps a suggestion of apple–the flavour is there–almost feels soft when you first taste it, then turns crunchy, spicy and runs very very long. Yes, we have plenty of stony mineral stuff too. Fabulous. A real ‘wow’ wine.’

Tyson Stelzer matches Gary every step of the way, and then makes a lunge for the trophy of wine poetry: ‘The bouquet sets out with a fragrance of pure lime blossom and spicy kaffir lime zest, which continue with delicate poise through a palate of seamless line, pristine energy and exceedingly persistent aftertaste. Soft, fine, mineral, chalky texture lingers amid perfectly poised acidity.’

Chris Shanahan just isn’t in the race here: ‘God knows where Colin Kroehn’s riesling grapes went before Dandelion’s bright young people came along. But since their arrival we’ve tasted some of the finest, most delicate Eden Valley Riesling on offer – a particularly juicy, taut and delicate wine in the 2012 vintage. The Dandelion team includes Carl Lindner, Brad Rey, Zar Brooks and Elena Brooks, winemaker. Octogenarian Colin Kroehn tends his venerable old vines, planted in 1912.’

Carl Lindner, Colin Kroehn and Elena Brooks. Sadly, Colin is no longer with us – he died in 2010. He had real style, old style.

Patrick Haddock, the Wining Pom writes:
‘No need to mention the superlative 2012 vintage in the Clare and Eden as it’s going to be a year to secure some bank loans if you’re a Riesling lover. There’s an Edenesque stature and signature of wet flagstones, lifted florals, kaffir lime and hints of candied ginger. It’s as much about citrus as it is about chalky minerals, it finds its trajectory immediately, delivering bursts of lemon, lime and scintillating spice leaving fresh acids to provide a lively, long finish. This is as good as Riesling gets – brilliant stuff. 95+’

Bert Werden at Winestar gets right in there with the best of them: ‘There is just so much going on with this wine, so much complexity. Still pale enough to appear as though it were bottled yesterday, the nose shows a full spectrum of citrus blossom from lime to lemon and mandarin with a hint of spice which I love and believe adds a dimension to the better examples of this variety.

‘In the mouth it is all Eden and reminds me of the great vintages of Steingarten of yesteryear with its chalky minerality that controls the fresh, somewhat restrained fruit and balances it with balanced with racy, slate-like, textural, crunchy acidity. Is it terroir, is it winemaking genius, is it 100 year old vines? What it is, is exceptional quality never mind the exceptional value at sub twenty dollars! Drink: Now-2023+; Quality: Exceptional.’

There’s stiff competition for all our poets from Dandelion’s website, which describes the wine this way:

‘Lights on in this Wonderland, an intense late vintage of powerful jasmine, mandarin leaf and even lychee juice bursting fruit freshness, with invigorating, intense smells of lime skin, citrus blossom, green apple, ripe guavas and cinnamon spice.

‘An extraordinary precise and clean fruit spectrum of crunch lime and other citrus fruit flavours, stone-fruit, including apricot as well as classic mandarin citrus on the mid palate, developing into rich lemon meringue tart-like flavour but still with a refreshing steely minerality, balanced with racy, slate-like acidity.’

I’ll let you make of this what you will, but I hope you enjoyed the poetry. My Tasting notes are much briefer, and I have to confess that I didn’t find half the things other reviewers listed in their desrciptions. No ripe guavas, no mandarins, no candied ginger, no kaffir lime zest, no wet flagstones. Must enroll in some of Peter Bourne’s wine appreciation classes.

Kroehn Vineyard, Eden Valley Township, Eden Valley

Here is an excerpt from an article on old vines written by Max Allen for US magazine Wine and Spirits http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com/ , which provides some insight into this remarkable vineyard:

‘Colin Kroehn is just a little younger than the modest, hillside vineyard his grandfather established in 1912. “I remember it was 1912,” he says, “because Dad told us he needed to get some wire for training the vines a couple of years after they were planted, but he couldn’t get any because the war had started.”

Like many other old growers across the Barossa, Colin calls his eleven acres of riesling and shiraz his ‘garden’. This harks back to the very foundations of European settlement in the Barossa in the 1840s, when whole communities of Prussian Lutherans, escaping religious persecution, landed in the new colony of South Australia, seeking a new life.

These first settlers transposed traditions essentially unchanged since the Middle Ages – traditions of worship, of art, of mixed farming – from a cold central European setting to an often harsh, hot Australian environment. No wonder so many of those old vineyards have survived, passed down from father to son for generations.

Colin … can pinpoint the moment when he saw his own vines move into maturity. “They came good in about 1942,” he says. “When they were 30 years old. I know because I used to prune them and pick them as a kid, when they were young, and they were wild, then. But I remember thinking, around ’42, that they were better, and the grapes were better, now they’d settled down.” ‘

Max Allen writes interesting stories about wine in many books and magazines – here’s a link to his blog http://realaustralianwines.blogspot.com.au/

Kim

The bigger they are, the harder they fall

Bargains have been far and few in between out there. Coles seems happy to play distant second fiddle to Woolworths so the heat has gone out of the battle. Worse, they’re up to their old tricks: bumping up the Rec retail price and then putting the wines on special. One example: Dogpoint Savvy at 1^st Choice on special for $25; you can buy it for $20 at Kemenys every day of every week.

Kemenys prices are always sharp but the latest cattledog didn’t really really tempt me with anything. Villa Maria Savvy 2012 for $11.50? Na. The Vavasour Avatere at $13.25 is most likely a better option – it’s waiting in the wings, I’ll let you know next time. Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2012 for $13.50 is a bargain if you haven’t bought cases of this already. The Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2010 is still on offer for $12.50, and you’d be hard-pushed to get a better BBQ red for the money my friends tell me.

PLEASE NOTE:
Because of the mixed bag of tastings in the last few weeks, and the mixed up photos, I haven’t grouped them as usual into BUY, NOT CONVINCED AND AVOID. Instead, we’ll go through the wines more or less as they came.

Cloudy Bay Pelorus Brut – $27 at Vintage direct (Nicks)

I’ve raved about this wine before, when it was $25 at Winestar. It’s still a bargain at $27, and a better wine than the cheap frogs at $35-40.  Better than most of our bubblies in that range as well. Made mostly from Chardonnay. 2 years ageing on yeast lees shows with hints of yeast and warm bread on the nose. Strong mousse and very fine bead. Creamy texture with flavours of cashew and biscuits, yeast lees and a hint of citrus. Lovely mouthful with depth and length and a soft mouth feel. Perfect balance between power and elegance. BUY

Saint Clair Gruener Veltliner 2011 – $19 at East End Cellar

Gruener Veltliner is a hardy white variety popular in Austria where it occupies about one third of the vineyard area. It has fans in Australia, where it is being planted here and there. Somewhere between Pinot Gris and ripe Riesling in flavour, with fruit ranging from apple to white peach. Big wine, good with food most likely, but short (lacking acid to clean it all up). Worth buying if you’re longing for something different.

New Zealand Grüner is like “Austrian Grüner Veltliner with hormones – it is much more aromatic”, according to John Forrest from Marlborough’s Forrest Wines. He told Drinks Business back in late 2010, ‘Marlborough may have done to Grüner Veltliner what it did to Sauvignon Blanc as much as 30 years ago.’

Our winewise Bill S bought the Laurenz V. 2005 on the right for $8 at auction. The nose suggested old Riesling but the palate was more like Chardonnay. Again it was short but what a bargain.

Dopff Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2009 – $28 at Dan M’s

Over the $25 limit again, and worth it once more. This is a stunning Alsace Riesling, big and ripe but classy, like a bowl of ripe fruit without the citrus that is the hallmark of our Rieslings. More minerals here, and more complexity, a towering example of what Riesling can do. Big enough to stand up to the pork and goose dishes of the region, I’m sure.There’s a touch of sweetness, be warned. BUY

The Jim Barry Lodge Hill Riesling 2012 behind it has won 7 trophies, but this is the third time I’ve tasted it and wondered why it had won all those gongs. It’s a nice, soft ripe Riesling but the standard JB Watervale holds more promise in my view. Still NOT CONVINCED, not for $20 at Winestar.

The Shaw and Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2011 didn’t impress Reg, Andy or me. This is often described as Australia’s best Savvy, and we were wondering why. Simple, almost flabby, no zest, no real depth of flavour – it’s a $22-23 touch and makes no sense. AVOID

We all thought the $13 Norfolk Rise Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Winestar) was a better drink by far (Andrew’s find). Fresh, crisp and herbaceous, lovely with the oysters and prawns we had. Great summer drinking at the price. Won a gold at the Melbourne Show (96 points) but we’d give it 91 or 92 (pretty good). BUY

Dandelion Vineyards Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling 2012 – $18 at Winestar

I had read a lot of raves about this little wine with a very big name, which has a fascinating history to boot. From the website: ‘Dandelion Vineyards is a unique fusion of vine and vigneron … Our wish is to nurture the unique character of these vineyards and express their terrior (sic) in our wines. Capturing variety, vintage and vineyard requires an enlightened approach and although our growers see the Devil in every weed, we encourage the humble Dandelion amongst the vines as they supress winter weeds, provide mulch in summer, and proffer their Wishing Clocks in spring top blow off to make our wish come true.’

The fruit for this wine comes from Colin Kroehn’s 100 year-old vineyard, which he tended from 1950 to his death in 2010. This Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling 2012 was ‘bottled directly without fining or filtration to capture the essence of the vineyard … whole bunches were hand-picked on the 16th of March then destemmed in small batches without crushing the fruit to fill our press exactly. The free run juice was then fermented in small tanks between 11 and 14 degrees Celcius, the wine has a high level of natural acidity, 7.5 grams per litre, a pH of 3.01 and although bone dry, only 12.5% alcohol.’

So much has been written about this Riesling that I dedicated a whole blog post to it. I’m almost loath to venture my opinion on it, which is that it’s a fine Riesling that leans to the chalky/mineral side of the spectrum. I prefer the Pewsey Vale from the same region, for the extra fruit and and zest it has in abundance. The Dandelion is a bit more restrained at this stage but has the structure to develop for some years. A classy dame, but a bit aloof and hard to talk to at present.

Elizabeth Siddal Marsanne Roussane Viognier 2010 – $13 at Bond’s Corner Fine Wine

Tiny vineyard, one of John C’s finds at Bonds Corner at Northbridge. Very restrained and refined for a McLaren Vale white, will take a few more years to open up. Minerals and wet pebbles at the moment; not exactly Chablis but it’s sure different. Not Sure

Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $20 at Kemenys

This is classy Savvy with fruit in the herbaceous spectrum, plus minerals, lots of flavour, some depth and length. A fine wine but like all the 2012 Savvies I’ve tried it’s pretty forward – pretty much ready to go. Not quite convinced it’s worth the money.

Barwang Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2012 – $13 at Winestar

This gets regular good reviews as a modern, cool climate style of Chardonnay. If it is, I don’t want modern or cool climate. The fruit is in the lemon curd/acid jazz spectrum, almost sour – or is it the oak they use? No, not likely. The 2011 was much the same. This wine actually got worse the longer we left it in the open bottle. Ghastly stuff – AVOID.

D’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne 2010 – $13 at Kemenys

The last bottle of this struck me as fairly developed but this one was pretty fresh. A great food wine with plenty of flavour, nice change from Savvy and Chardy, try it with Italian food like pesto/creamy pasta. Much better than the 2011 that is turning up in the shops. BUY

Sadly, the Olive Grove Chardonnay 2011 from the same stable is not enjoyable. Not a lot of Chardonnay character, plenty of generic flavour that is a bit hot and clumsy, and all squashed up on mid palate. Just 88 points from Halliday. Probably reflects the awful vintage year in SA. AVOID

The Spy Valley Chardy is not readily available. It’s no great loss since it’s not that exciting for over $20. I was more impressed with the Riesling and Gewuerz from this maker. Haven’t been able to track down the 2011 Chardonnay which was declared NZ’s best white by Michael Cooper. We can only wonder if the Oz distributor is fast asleep or if the Kiwis kept it all for themselves.

Catching Thieves Margaret River Chardonnay 2011 – $11 at Dan M’s

One of the many horses in the McWilliams stable, I gave this the thumbs up a while back: simple, fresh, mouth-filling and enjoyable. Not much oak, more like an unwooded Chardy. Surprise packet for the money. BUY

Domaine de la Baume la Jeunesse Syrah 2011 – $13 at Dan M’s

The boys at Dan Murphy’s Balgowlah recommended this big soft, cuddly red from the Languedoc in the south of France. Not going anywhere but easy on the gums and packed with velvety flavour. A bit short and a bit unstructured but I’m being picky. BUY

Woodlands Margaret River Chardonnay 2012– $22 AT Dan M

Woodlands is one of my favourite labels so this was a disappointment. The wine is too simple and nowhere near as tight as a quality young Chardy should be. Light on flavour and oak, and depth. Can’t see it going very far but I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt. NOT CONVINCED

Amelia Park Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011 – $17 at Dan M’s

I wasn’t convinced by the Amelia Park Cabernet Merlot from this highly rated winery a while back, and this one is about the same: well enough made but unexciting and lacking essential flavour, depth and length. It’s cheaper than the Cab Merlot but that doesn’t really help. Margaret River blends like this should be shining beacons. NOT CONVINCED

Holm Oak Vineyards Pinot Noir 2011 – $17 at Mosman Cellars

I wasn’t expecting much from this – given the price and the wet year and the few drinkable Pinots under $25 – but Maz at Mosman Cellars said it was good so I grabbed a bottle. Sadly, he’s wrong. As luck would have it, I think he sold it to me at the Holm Oak Ilex price, which is a cheaper range. This wine is $30 at Dan Murphy’s. It’s not a great Pinot, in fact it’s barely drinkable. There are some dried herbs here but not a lot of fruit. It really doesn’t taste that great, and sure isn’t worth the money. I feel for the producers trying to make a living in such a vintage, but … AVOID

Maison de Grand Esprit Cote de Nuits-Village La Belle Voisine 2009 – was $22 at United Cellars but sold out

I only mention this because John L brought it along for lunch, and I said: if our winemakers could produce wine like this for under $25, they’d be ecstatic. It’s a perfect budget Burgundy, an object lesson in bourgeois French winemaking but sadly several shipments of it sold out in hours once word got around. Our young Turk winemakers used to ridicule the French for their méthodes anciennes, but I suspect they’d keep very quiet if they tasted this. BUY if you can find it

Castle Rock Great Southern Riesling 2012 – $18 at Kemenys

This is from down south in Western Auastralia and generally well reviewed. To me, it lacks the zing and zippy acid of the best young Aussie Rieslings, a bit one-dimensional and subdued, maybe going through a stage, but not really exciting right now. There are more convincing Rieslings out there for less money. NOT CONVINCED

Swings & Roundabouts Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2011 – $17 at Dan M’s

A pretty ordinary effort, this. Lacks charm and appeal, and the fruit and oak are a bit clumsy. No real class, pretty ordinary for Margaret River Cabernet Merlot. The Madfish Bay Gold Turtle Cabernet Merlot 2010 is both cheaper and better. NOT CONVINCED

Woodlands Cabernet Merlot 2011 – $22 AT Dan M’

Another disappointment. Plenty of soft plummy fruit and good mouth feel but quite forward, pretty well ready to drink and nowhere to go. Not good enough for this money or this label. NOT CONVINCED

Te Mata Merlot/Cabernets Woodthorpe Vineyard 2009 – $20 at Dan M’s

This is the little brother of the widely admired $70 Coleraine Cabernet Merlot. The colour isn’t that strong and shows some development, and the nose supports that impression. The flavour is developed too, with some leather and herbs and spices. Seemed a little light on body at first but opened up, filled out and came good after a while, better still the next day. Good food wine, great with chicken cacciatore. Not too heavy.

Ferngrove Frankland River Symbols Cabernet Merlot 2009 – $13 at Dan M’s

This is a highly rated winery in Great Southern WA, but this wine will do it no credit. It’s the winery’s cheapest label but it offers us nothing to enjoy. The palate is a jungle. The wine is big and clumsy and devoid of charm. AVOID

The next lot of wines were provided by Bill S at Andrew’s book club evening, along with the Gruener Veltliners reviewed above.

Arthur Metz Alsace collection 2011 – $15/16 at Ultimo Wine Centre

These wines are pretty decent for the money if you want the taste of Alsace without lashing out for the grand crus. This is a commercial label as we can see from the simple descriptors at the top. They’re fairly decent wines for the money but won’t worry Aussie winemakers too much. They’re all quite ripe and forward and flavoursome, but they didn’t make me want to rush out and buy some. Am I being hard on these? Tell me if I am. NOT CONVINCED

Bill said all of the reds that follow had won gold medals at national shows, but I didn’t much care for most of them. The Wicks Estate Shiraz 2010 ($16 at Dan M’s) was unremarkable, the Long Road Shiraz 2010 ($20 at Dan M’s) was all arms and legs and remarkable only for the fact that it was made from grapes grown at Gundagai.

The Robert Oatley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 was the only red with some polish here, but even it wasn’t that exciting. Mind you, Huon Hooke called it a ripper of a McLaren Vale Shiraz and gave it 93 ($16 at My Cellars). The Ingoldby Shiraz 2010 ($12 at Vintage Cellars) was the same old inky, blunt edged McLaren Vale Shiraz I’ve always loathed – consistent is about the only positive I can think of. AVOID this one. NOT CONVINCED by any of the others.

The Wolf Blass Gold Label Barossa Shiraz 2010 is usually a $20 touch, and it tastes like Wolf Has handed down his secrets of oak maturation to the current winemaker (WB has been part of the Treasure Wines/Fosters/Southcorp stable for some years). This is a slick number for sure, with lots of ripe, plush dark berries and soft tannins – slips down the hatch like a little Jesus in velvet pants as they say in Burgundy. Polished, and showing a lot of front – just like the old Wolfie. 14.5%. BUY if you like the style. I found it for $90 a sixpack on the maker’s website. 

I think that’s enough for now

Kim

Why 100 or 20 point scoring systems are pointless.

Treasures from local wine merchants

I read that Michael Cooper, NZ’s James Halliday, had pronounced the Spy Valley Chardonnnay 2011 the best NZ Chardy released in 2012. You can get all kinds of Spy Valley wines in Sydney but the Chardonnay isn’t one of them. After an exhaustive trawl of the internet, the only place that popped up as a source was Mosman Cellars.

Mosman Cellars? I didn’t even know that we had an independent wine merchant left around here. There’s Cremorne Cellars down in Spofforth St, holding out against the Vintage Cellars monopoly in this area. Coles bought the Theos chain some years ago, and Theo had bought just about all the grog shops from Neutral Bay to Mosman. It was time to do what I’ve been preaching and show support my local wine merchant some support.

Mosman Cellars is a hole in the wall on Spit Road, among a gaggle of forlorn-looking shops, between Stanton and Parriwi Roads on the opposite side. The owner is a helpful young fellow called Maz. He doesn’t have any Spy Valley Chardonnay but he says he’ll find me a bottle. Service is the name of the game here, and wine labels you don’t see too often.

Sadly, only one of these is a BUY but the fun is in getting to know these wineries.

BUY

Southern Highlands Wines Estate Riesling 2012 – $15 at Mosman Cellars

Big, rich wine with enormous concentration of fruit, almost too much of a good thing, ripe citrus and orange set off against a fine acid backbone. Talk about flavour! Not one to keep, but one to have with full-flavoured foods over the next 12 months. It’s dry but it might’ve been even better late picked. 14%.

Castle Rock Great Southern Riesling 2012 – $20 at Bonds Corner Fine Wines

A fine Riesling from Porongurup near Mount Barker, with more restrained fruit than the 2012s from South Australia. It’s more delicate too but not soft in the German manner, in fact the acid is bordering on sour. The lime juice fruit is a little more subdued here, and the flavour has more herbaceous notes. With a bit of luck, that sharp backbone of fine acid will ensure years of improvement. Halliday gives it 96, Ray Jordan 95. I would’ve like a little more mid-palate intensity and a touch softer finish so I’m a couple of points behind. 12%.

Spy Valley Gewuerztraminer 2011 – $20 at Kemenys

I’ve been reading good things about Spy Valley, and their Gewuerztraminer has been a favourite for a while now. Had a chance to try it again, and it’s a big, rich Gewuerz and just great if you’re looking for the ripe lychees and spices. Not one to put away, but one to drink soon with rich foods like pork dishes.14%.

Spy Valley Riesling 2012 – $20 at Mosman Cellars

A much more refined wine, from a different year as well, really elegant citrus fruit and delicate but persistent acid. Long and lean but ripe enough, the fruit is softening already but the wine should improve for a couple of years or three.12.5%.

Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $17 at Mosman Cellars

2012 looks like a soft, ripe year from early indications. This wine has terrific fruit with hints of gooseberry and cut grass, and some citrus nuances but it’s all wrapped in a soft, ripe envelope that’s pretty easy on the gums. There’s not a huge of amount of acid here for a young Sauvignon Blanc. Enjoy now rather than later. 13%

McWillams Hanwood Estate 2010 – $8 at 1^st Choice

The good value 2009 is gone now, but this is very similar. Recognisable as Chardonnay, a touch more elegant and balanced, a trifle less oaky, decent drinking for the money. 13.5%

Catching Thieves Margaret River Chardonnay – $11 at Dan M’s

I used to struggle to find a McWilliams wine I could recommend, but this is the second one this week. The cute label that bears no resemblance to any other in the company’s stable. I suspect the fruit for it comes from McWilliams’ recent acquisition of Evans & Tate. This is pretty good drinking for the money – and I’ve seen this label on special at under $10 – with good Chardonnay fruit and enough depth and length and acid to keep it interesting. Not unlike unwooded Chardy but a bit more disciplined. 13.5%

Not Convinced

Knee Deep in Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $16 at Mosman Cellars

What I like most about this wine is the label. It made me smile. The wine was a bit flat and unexciting for an SSB from Margaret River. Needs a bit more fruit and more zest to convince us that it’s a serious wine. Not that bad, but not really good enough. Gets 91 from James H. I’m a couple points behind once more.

Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2012 – $15 at Winestar

This looked like a terrific bargain, with all the gongs and rave reviews: South Australian Wine of the Year (Trophy), 96 Points (Gold) at the Melbourne Show 2012, Gold Medal at the Hobart Show 2012, Best Value White Wine – The Age/Sydney Morning Herald Good Wine Guide 2013, and more.

Reg, Andy and I grabbed a bottle to have with lunch. Our disappointment was unanimous: this was a pleasant, soft Riesling with instant appeal, nothing wrong with it, but we all agreed we’d had better Rieslings from this terrific year. Pewsey Vale, Jim Barry Watervale, O’Leary Walker Watervale and Mitchell’s Clare Valley Rieslings are our top 4 for $15 -$20.

About the Knappstein, Nick Stock writes: ‘… lovely, dense acidity, crunchy and even. Terrific flow and balance, great flavour depth here.’ We didn’t see that. Tyson Stelzer says ‘Precise lime juice, granny smith apple and lemon blossom carry seamlessly from refined bouquet through a palate of brilliant intensity, unreserved focus and incredible persistence. Layers of chalky mineral structure …’ we didn’t see that either. Max Allen talks about a great value Riesling you can ‘comfortably cellar for a decade or more.’ We didn’t think the wine would last that long.

Are we blind? Were we smoking something weird over lunch? No. The 2012 Jim Barry Lodge Hill served as a reference, and it was the better wine (and the dearer at $20) yet this winner of 7 trophies is not our top 2012 Riesling either. It comes down to the way we taste wines, I suspect: with food, over a period, not on a bench with a dozen others. Try it yourself, it’s not a bad wine for $15.

Chateau de la Mallevieille Bergerac 2011 – $22 at Bonds Corner Fine Wine

Bergerac is an area that lies to the south-east of Bordeaux, very much overshadowed by its famous neighbour. Bergerac is a large and diverse area with a mixed reputation, so this is the kind of wine you should only buy from a wine merchant who knows his way around the producers. John at Bonds Corner in Northbridge was a sommelier before he bought this bottleshop, and he has an interesting selection lot of wines here.

This one is an aromatic wine with a fresh fruit flavour profile – there’s some Sauvignon Blanc detectable here, and other flavours suggesting a fruit salad mix of grapes. Checking on the appellation reveals that Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, Viognier and Carignan are all used in these wines. It’s fresh and well-made, and good summer drinking when chilled. It’s a bit short on the finish but the reason it’s not a BUY is the price: $22 after the 15% discount for a 6-pack. There’s just not enough to it for this kind of money. More info on the wines of Bergerac here.

Brokenwood Chardonnay 2012 – $16 at Chambers Cellars (30% off sale)

Once this was the original boutique winery with a tiny output, but these days Brokenwood makes a staggering array of wines. Few of them use Hunter Valley fruit, it seems. This Chardy is sourced from Beechworth, McLaren Vale and Cowra, and it’s a very attractive, well-made wine – fruit driven and not relying on oak to any extent. The downside is that it’s not recognisable as a Chardonnay, it tastes more like a fruit salad blend. Nice enough, don’t get me wrong, but not really good enough compared with Chardys from Hoddles Creek and Tarrawarra for the same money. (this is a $20 wine most places, most of the time).

Brokenwood Pinot Noir 2010 – $19 at Chambers Cellars (30% off)

This Pinot Noir from Beechworth is a notch higher in the price range than the Chardy, and the first thing that stands out is the good red colour and the depth of it. Sadly, the rest of the wine is less impressive. Again it’s well-made, and again it’s not recognisable as a Pinot Noir. It’s a light to medium bodied red that lacks both the sweet and savoury nuances we expect in a good Pinot. Checking my bearings, I find that scores range from 87 (Parker) to 90 points from the ever-generous James Halliday. I’m somewher in between.

Ruggabellus FLUUS 2011 – $23 at Bonds Corner Fine Wine

I love the name, and the label, and the story told by Abel Gibson on his website: ‘… my life has been filled with privileged experience working with and observing some great winemakers each with their own unique way of crafting wine. ‘Respect and history’ was learnt at Penfolds, ‘art and tradition’ at Rockford, ‘intellect and detail’ from Chris Ringland, ‘bunch and mystery’ from Charlie Melton, ‘provenance and balance’ from my father at Gibson and most recently and quite importantly ‘belief’ from Pete and Magali at Spinifex – without their encouragement ‘Ruggabellus’ would in all likelihood have remained an idea to this day.’

Last year, Abel Gibson won both Young Gun of Wine Awards – he was both the judges’ and the consumers’ choice. Max Allen said, ‘Past finalists of the Young Gun of Wine Awards have gone on to become legends of the industry, so it is remarkable that one winemaker has taken both awards – particularly so in a year that has arguably the strongest line-up of finalists thus far.’ Enough said?

The other wines Abel Gibson makes are

• TIMAEUS – inspired by Grenache
• EFFERUS – inspired by Mataro
• ARCHAEUS – inspired by Syrah

I couldn’t find an explanation for the inspired names, try as I might. FLUUS, Abel tells us, contains those wines that remain after blending the three above. Gary Walsh at the Winefront tells us that the 2011 Fluus was the only wine Abel made from that rain-soaked vintage. I wanted to like the wine, a hand-made, medium-bodied (13.6%) Barossa GSM, but I have to admit I liked the wine less than Gary. I think it reflects the awful vintage, and in hindsight I may have been a bit harsh on Kym Teusner’s 2011 reds which have a bit more meat on their bones. The Fluus has all the right ingredients for a wine made to go with food but they don’t work any magic, and the wine feels a bit edgy and thin in the mouth, rather than silky and smooth. Not a keeper either.

More info here: http://www.ruggabellus.com.au/information/

AVOID

Tempus Two Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $13 at MyCellars and other places

This blend of Hunter Semillon and Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc has won tree trophies and several gold medals, and here am I saying ‘stay clear of it.’ This is one of those tricked-up wines where unripe (11.3%) fruit is masked by a sweet fruit overlay that reminds me of artificially sweetened soft drink. I’ve no idea how this concoction fooled the judges.My partner is in full agreement.

Harewood Estate Riesling 2012, Vendange Tardive – $20 at Mosman Cellars

This is a Riesling from the Great Southern region of Western Australia. Vendange Tardive, like Spaetlese, means late picked. This wine has some residual sweetness on offer but little else – no crisp acidity to carry it, no real intensity of mid-palate flavour, no perfume on the nose … it’s a mystery wine from a serious new winery. Three of us could find no redeeming features over here, and I still can’t a week later.

Bad bottle? No idea. On that subject, the heavy designer bottle is a real turn-off. I really wish wineries would stop using these since they must take a lot more energy to make and to move around than ordinary bottles.

Kim

When it comes to wine tastings, there’s no shortage of surprises.

We opened a few interesting wines over Christmas and New Year, as you do. I wrote about some of them in this post

One of my followers asked me why I didn’t review Hunter Valley wines more often. My experience is that you have to pay more than $25 for good Hunters – for example the Tyrrells Bin reds and whites, and the better Brokenwoods – and that other wine areas offer better value. Another reason is that I’m not fond of most of the underdone Semillons that come out of the valley, even if I’m the odd man out here.

So I thought I’d better try some Hunter Valley wines, but Dan Murphy’s selection was remarkably small. Perhaps most Hunter wine is still bought direct from vineyards since its so close to Sydney. Nothing wrong with that but it didn’t help me on this occasion. Still, we have a few Hunters here for review.

BUY

Waipara Hills Pinot Gris 2011 – $16, Dan M’s

We’ll start with a couple of KIWIs for a change. This is a rich Pinot Gris full of ripe pears, peaches and ginger, but balanced. It’s a big smooth almost unctuous mouthful – not unlike Traminer – and 14.5% strong. Would be great with a rich pork dish – pork fillet in cream and mustard sauce, or a pork roast. A Pinot Gris that doesn’t ask for understanding or forgiveness. Don’t keep it for too long, though.

Clifford Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $13 at Kemenys

I’ve raved about this wine before, and it’s at its peak now: sharply focused if not complex, but with lovely ripe fruit in the gooseberry spectrum and a finish that remains resolutely crisp. Perfect summer seafood wine, will last another 6 – 12 months but won’t improve.

Fraser Gallop Parterre Chardonnay 2011 – $26 at MyCellars

This wine is just over $25 but worth crossing the threshold. Fraser Gallop is an up-and-coming winery near Willyabrup in Margaret River. Nigel Gallop is pretty serious about his endeavour; to prove how serious, he hired ex-Vasse Felix winemaker Clive Otto in 2007. Clive Otto was Australian Winemaker of the Year in Wine State magazine once, and clearly has a lot to offer http://www.gourmettraveller.com.au/gourmet-traveller-wine-winemaker-of-the-year-2011-finalist-clive-otto-fraser-gallop.htm

This wine scored 97 points in James Halliday’s Chardonnay Challenge 2012; the Penfolds Yattarna 2008 was the only wine to score higher with 98 points. The Parterre is a class act for sure, a touch more elegant than the lovely Mountadam 2010 but there’s enough white peach and classy French oak to make me think of white Burgundy. Lovely now and years in front of it.

Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Eden Valley Riesling 2012 – $14 at Dan M’s

It looks like the vintage of 2012 has sprinkled fairy dust on every Riesling in South Australia. Sandpiper is Thorn-Clarke’s basic range. This wine is less perfumed and flowery than the 2012 Pewsey Vale – it’s on the savoury rather than fruity side, more like a traditional Eden Valley Riesling. It has the length and depth and backbone to improve over a few years too. Not outstanding value, given that you can buy the Pewsey Vale or Jim Barry for the same money. 13%.

Bellarmine Riesling Dry 2010

A wine I recommended a year ago, which has settled into a lovely, refined yet honeyed wine with distinct German overtones – dry Spaetlese comes to mind. Very interesting style, and quite different from the Clare and Eden Valley Rieslings I love. The 2011 is more delicate, judgeing by the 11% alcohol. I haven’t tried it. JH gives it 94. $17 at Kemenys.

Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Riesling 2012 – $6 at Dan M’s

This is not the greatest Riesling around, and my first thought was to put it in the NOT CONVINCED group. At $6, that’s hard to do because the 2012 vintage has even worked its magic on wines of such humble origin (all over SA) and modest price. It’s a bit sweet and a bit simple, but there’s nothing wrong with it for the price, and there’s authentic lime fruit here with length and balance. 12.5%.

Bethany Barossa Chardonnay 2010 – $16 at Dan M’s.

An old Barossa family that used to sell its grapes to the big guys, then set up its own winery in the early eighties when the big guys stopped buying their grapes. I’d had little exposure to Bethany until a wonderful fortified wine called Old Quarry Fronti ($20 at Dan M’s) surprised me last winter, and this Chardonnay did the same thing. Quite restrained for a 3-year old Barossa Chardy, elegant fruit in the white peach spectrum, light touches of nutty oak, all of it perfectly balanced by a long crisp finish. 13%.

Meerea Park Shiraz 2011 – $13 at Dan Murphy

This is the new name of the former Little’s winery at Pokolbin in the Hunter Valley. James Halliday tells us that owner and winemaker Rhys Eather is a grandson of Alexander Munro, a leading vigneron of the 19^th century. This wine is young and fresh once you let it breathe, but shows some mature touches around the gentle sweet fruit. Lightish in body, not unlike a Chianti, and just as easy on the gums. Perfect lunchtime red, or anytime with Pizza or Pasta. No big future but good drinking for $13. 13%. (the winery gets 5 red stars from JH).

Baron Amarillo Rioja Reserva 2006 – $10 at ALDI

This Rioja from ALDI turns out to be a pretty nice drop for $10. Elegant and sophisticated, with a light Spanish accent, mature but not too developed. Easy on the gums. 

 Seppeltsfield DP 57 Grand Tokay – $29 at Dan M’s

Yes, it’s over $25 but the bottle is 500ml. This was left over from the last winter, when we lapped it up with dried fruits and nuts and a sweet cheese. Classic Rutherglen Tokay.

NOT CONVINCED

Tyrrells Moon Mountain Chardonnay 2012 – $15 at Dan M’s

Lemon curd fairly leaps from the nose of this wine, a common affliction of our new wave Chardonnays. There’s more of it on the palate along with some hints of green melon. Not much nutty oak here or creamy peaches, and not my kind of Chardonnay. Not a lot of depth here either, and it finishes short. With a bit of luck it will improve for a year or two. 13.5%

Looks like they pay more attention to the PR blurb than the winemaking at Tyrrell’s these days. The website says of this wine: Skillfully (sic) crafted through the amalgamation of fruit and balanced wood handling, this wine has an energy and personality that comes from the dedication of making a perfect example of a Hunter Valley chardonnay.

D’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne 2011 – $14 at Dan M’s

I was keen try this after the great 2010. Sadly, this year isn’t in the same class – it lacks depth, flavour and crisp acidity. Nothing wrong with it per se, it just doesn’t hit the right notes for me. May improve in the short term. 13.5%

AIRDE.450 Clare Valley Riesling 2012 – $10 at ALDI

Nothing fundamentally wrong with this one either, and hinting at the quality of the 2012 vintage, but once again it didn’t really excite me or grab me as a standout bargain the way the Annie’s Lane does for the same money. 12.5%

Kalleske Moppa Shiraz 2010

I’d expected more from this wine. Kalleske has a great reputation for Barossa reds, and the ancient family vineyards are carefully managed along organic lines. I bought this $30 wine some months ago for $22, but didn’t get around to tasting it until now. To give the Shiraz a lift, Troy Kalleske uses small amounts of Viognier and Petit Verdot in the final blend.

There’s certainly a lovely fruit sweetness here, with an extra dash of bright cherries and spicy fruit cake, but depth and complexity are a bit light on. Nice mouth feel, soft tannins and balance, just a bit light on for an old vines Barossa Shiraz. 14.5%. NLA. The 2011 is $23 at Dan M’s online.

Audrey Wilkinson Hunter Valley Shiraz 2009 – $18 at Dan M’s

This wine is made at one of the Hunter’s most historic vineyards, bought by the Wilkinson family in 1866. By the early 1900s, following the death of his father, Audrey Wilkinson took over the winemaking at 15 years of age. He made hock, claret and fortified wines which won awards around Australia and were popular in London. Audrey’s motto was It’s all about the taste.

There sure is no shortage of taste here: the dense, deep red colour suggests substance, the slightly pongy, tarry edge on the nose is classic traditional Hunter red. The wine packs a bigger punch than the other two Hunter reds in this post. There’s some sweet fruit here too, but it’s on the hot side and the acid isn’t as fine as it should be. Maybe it just needs ten years to turn into one of those great old Hunter reds, but I doubt it. 14%.

John Duval Affinis Shiraz Barossa Valley 2010 – $23 at Cellarmasters

This wine was offered to David Jones wine club customers as part of a BEST selection. I suspect it’s made by Cellarmasters for DJs, via complex arrangements – more details here:  http://briard.typepad.com/get_the_picture/2012/09/woolworths-and-coles-masters-of-wine.html

Made by John Duval, for many years the chief winemaker at Penfolds before Southcorp bought Rosemount. The wine is deep red in colour, very vibrant and young, smells of red fruits and plum jam. The fruit tastes a bit extracted and jammy to me, there’s an overlay of expensive oak (American and French, 30% new), which isn’t sitting comfortably. It’s a chunky wine, a strange blend of quality touches and sharp edges. I expected more polish from a wine made by a winemaker of John Duval’s calibre. 14%.

Westend 3 Bridges Botrytis Semillon 2010 – $19 at Kemenys

I don’t drink a lot of stickies so I put this on one of my BEST lists, given the rave review from James Haliday (95 points) … ‘the palate is unctuous and hedonistic, with a long, luscious and pure finish; wonderful value at the price.’ The wine has alos won trophies at the Shanghai International Wine Challenge and the Decanter World Wine Awards. I found a pretty simple sweet wine, which might’ve had more life to it a year ago. The $10 de Bortoli bargain of the year elicited more delighted noises from the dinner table.

AVOID

Madfish Gold Turtle Margaret River Chardonnay – $14 at Dan M’s

A curious wine not recognisable as a Chardonnay. There’s some perfume on the nose but it’s not the kind of perfume we associate with wine – it’s more like the stuff women use to make themselves smell more appealing to the opposite sex. I suspect it’s some kind of fancy aromatic oak, and it clouds the palate as well and obscures whatever else is going on. Over two days this wine didn’t change much, and never revealed its charms. I thought the 2010 Gold Turtle Cabernet Merlot was terrific value but this wine is an aberration.

Tyrrells Brokenback Shiraz 2010

Some call this wine the ‘baby brother to Vat 9’, arguably Tyrrell’s best Shiraz, but I suspect Vat 9 would take offence. It opens with a classic Hunter red nose of old tennis shoes and sweaty socks. Once that clears, the wine turns out to be remarkably free from complexity, depth, substance or interest. It’s a lightish red like the Meerea Park, without the fruit, life, charm and appeal of that one. It just isn’t one of those wines that makes you come back for more. And over the two days I had it open, it offered less and less.

The ratings this wine gets from other reviewers range from 88 to 90, yet they all say nice things about it. Funny how no one wants to pick a fight with Bruce Tyrrell and call this a pretty poor effort for $15 from a winery with such a big reputation. I’ll give it 4 (86-87) a rating I reserve for ‘a wine best used in the kitchen or in marinades for the BBQ’. My apologies for quoting myself before I’ve become famous.

Kim

The good news is that you can still buy it in 2013

The Christmas and New Year break is a good time to revisit some of the top wines on our lists to make sure we got our recommendations right. The result is a short short list of wines we enjoyed and confirmed as outstanding bargains.

de Bortoli Deen Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon 2008

At $10.45 a half bottle at Dan M’s, my advice is: back up the ute. You won’t find a better sticky than this for less than $20. The colour is mid gold, the nose promises oranges and apricots, honey and cream. The palate delivers on the promise in a rich and luscious package, so full of flavor you don’t really need a dessert with it. It’s not the most complex of dessert wines but it’s 5 years old and ready to enjoy. I have no idea why it hasn’t sold out long ago – the wine has won four trophies and seven gold medals. Gets 8.5 out of 10 from me (96).

Mountadam High Eden Chardonnay 2010

The runner up for the bargain of the year, this is textbook Chardonnay but not of the fashionable Twiggy style. It’s full-flavoured, or at least it will be given another year or two. The problem is that it’s hard to keep your hands off it. The 500m high vineyard was planted in the early seventies by the late David Wynn and son Adam, and the vines are 40 years old now. Con Moshos – ex Petaluma – is in charge of winemaking and clearly equal to the task.

Huon Hooke wrote in the SMH that the Mountadam 2010 Chardonnay topped a tasting in World of Fine Wine magazine in March last year, conducted by Andrew Jefford, Anthony Rose and Jancis Robinson. The competition included our top Chardonnays: Cullen, Leeuwin Estate Art Series, Giaconda, Penfolds Yattarna, Tiers Vineyard, Coldstream Hills Reserve, By Farr, Pierro, Philip Shaw, Tyrrell’s Vat 47, Oakridge 864 and Shaw + Smith. The Yattarna 2008 came second to the Mountadam, and it’s about 5 times the price.

The 2010 vintage of this wine is now hard to find, especially at the old $25 price, but there’s some left at Jim’s Cellars and at Kemenys for $28 and $30 respectively. 14%.

Fraser Gallop Parterre Chardonnay 2011

This is a competent substitute for the Mountadam, also for just over $25. It scored 97 points in James Halliday’s Chardonnay Challenge 2012, and finished equal second in a field of 450 wines. Penfolds Yattarna 2008 was the only wine to score higher with 98 points. The Parterre is another class act, a touch more elegant than the Mountadam but with enough white peach and classy French oak to make me think of white Burgundy. Lovely now and years in front of it. $26 at MyCellars.

Pewsey Vale Riesling 2012

This was the stand-out bargain in what was a 10 out of 10 Riesling vintage in South Australia. Flowers, bath powder and fine minerals wrapped around a seemingly endless core of intense citrus fruit. 12.5%. We bought this for $13.75 at one stage. $15 at Winestar and Kemenys. 9 out of 10. The Jim Barry Riesling from the same year isn’t far behind for the same money, and the O’Leary Walker Watervale is another great 2012 for a few dollars more – $18 at Dan M’s.

Amberley Secret Lane Cabernet Merlot 2010

The red bargain of 2012 from Margaret River, and there’s still some left if you look hard enough. It won a gold in virtually every capital city wine show, and several trophies. It’s medium bodied but rich and supple, stacked with cassis and blackcurrant fruit, dried herbs and slate, all in perfect balance. 13.5%. Score: 8.5. $15 at Winelistaustralia.

Teusner Shiraz Mataro 2010

Outstanding example of this 50/50 blend from the Barossa, made from old vines, great flavor with gamey notes from the Mataro (Mourvèdre), perfect with roast beef or hearty casseroles. Grab some while you still can. Score: 8.5. 14.5%. $18, MyCellars

Hidden Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

The bargain Coonawarra Cabernet from a great red year. This is the Leconfield 2010 under a hidden label, for almost $10 less. Rich, ripe, opulent cassis fruit, real depth, length and great balance with polished tannins. Big at 14.5%. Score: 8.5. $18, Kemenys

Leasingham Bin 8 KS Riesling 2008

If Riesling has never been popular, late picked Riesling has become virtually invisible. This is a modern version of the John Vickery Spaetlese Rieslings of the late sixties. Many years in front of it. Super bargain if you like the style. $8, Dan M, $10 at Winestar.

ALL THE BEST FOR THE NEW YEAR

KIM

There’s some Christmas Cheer here, for sure.

How do we choose the wines we review?

That’s a simple question for most wine writers: they review the samples wineries or distributors send them. That’s why you see so many reviews of wines you’ve never heard of and can’t get hold of easily. I choose wines because:

• They’ve had positive reviews from Halliday, Hooke, Stock, Stelzer et al
• They’ve appeared on best or top lists such as Halliday’s Top 100 in 2012
• They’ve won significant trophies
• They’ve been recommended by friends who know their wines
• They’re being promoted /discounted by major outlets
• I was impressed with the previous vintage

The only other criterion is that the wines I write about are readily available and cost less than $25. Except for the Christmas selection I’ve just posted.

OK, let’s get down to the wines of the last 2 weeks. As always, the reviews are my views and often differ from those of other reviewers. Where the difference is marked, I add other views to provide a broader perspective. As always I buy the wines I review in the same shops you do. I don’t review samples as a rule, which may explain the different results.

A short recap of my rating system

10 (98-99) a truly memorable wine, a likely classic

9 (96-97) an outstanding wine, a great example of its style and origin

8 (94-95) a fine wine that reflects its variety, style and origin

7 (92-93) a good, enjoyable wine of authentic character

6 (90-91) a well-made wine, a good ‘drinking’ wine

5 (88-89) a wine that’s easy on the gums and has no serious faults

4 (86-87) a wine best used in the kitchen or in marinades for the BBQ

3 (85 and less) a wine you should avoid

BUY

Pewsey Vale Eden Vally Riesling 2007, $15 at Dan Murphys (Cellar Release)

It can be gratifying when you take your own advice and it turns out to be spot on. I’ve been raving about the 2006 Pewsey Vale Riesling all year, what a great wine it was and what a bargain at $19. We opened a bottle this week, and the wine has entered that lovely soft, mouth-filling phase that makes this a terrific food wine. Nuances of buttered toast, honey and kerosine keep you coming back to the glass in disbelief. What a bargain it was.

The current cellar release is the 2007, which is not quite in the same class but still lovely old Riesling at a ridiculous price ($15 for 6). Grab some while you can. Score: 8.5

Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay 2012, was $22 at Dan M’s on the day

Stunning Chardonnay, quite forward like many 2012s. Hints of white peach and cashews on the nose, and the palate adds notes of apricots after a couple of days in the open bottle. Suggestion of fine oak, terrific balance, just a lovely mouthful, elegant yet satisfying and lingering.Score: 9

Mad Fish Gold Turtle Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $14 at Dan M’s

A newish label for Howard Park’s Mad Fish range, just a notch above the plain old Mad Fish. This is fairly typical Margaret River SSB with hints of cut grass and gooseberries, already enjoyable, well made and well balanced. Good value, if not quite in the same class as the Cabernet Merlot under the same label. Score: 7.5

Mount Pleasant Florence Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $13 at Dan M’s

McWilliams is naming selected wines after family members much as Yalumba used to do with its signature series. Unlike Yalumba, McWilliams has released Jack (a Coonawarra Cabernet) and Florence (an Adelaide Hills SB) at the bargain end of the market. Who knows why, and who knows why they use the Mount Pleasant label for wines made nowhere near Mt Pleasant. Another wine company that’s grown too large and lost the plot?

This wine is nothing like my idea of Sauvignon Blanc but it’s a very appealing drink, jam-packed with tropical fruit/ripe pear flavour supported by enough crunchy acidity to hold it together. It’s more like a ripe Pinot Gris, so I’d have it with pork rather than seafood. Score: 7.5

St Hallett Gamekeepers Barossa Shiraz 2010, $11 at Winestar

Bert Werden at Winestar tells us that this wine scored 96 Points at the Melbourne Show 2012 and won a Gold Medal in the Jimmy Watson Class. I don’t think it’s that good but it’s a bargain for the money, typical sweet, warm, spicy Barossa Shiraz, well balanced, soft and ready to drink, and only(!?) 14%. By far the best of the red Gamekeepers from 2010. Score: 7.5

Richard Hamilton McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010, $17 at Dan M’s

This red won both trophies at the Visy Great Aussie Shiraz Challenge, the under $20 one and the over $20 one. Unprecedented, they tell us. I can see the appeal of this wine in a show situation because its charms are all out front: big, soft fruit, sweet and lots of it. The more you let it breathe, the more fruit you get, and that earthy McLaren Vale taste fades. A lovely mouthful, if a bit short for my liking. Good value for money, but don’t expect to hear angels sing. Score: 8

2010 Gibson Reserve Shiraz, $38 at Nick’s Vintage Direct

This wine is well over $25, but it’s almost Christmas time so please give me a little latitude here. Friends shared it with me, and I thought it was a pretty classy red. The ripe fruit had tremendous concentration with no hint of jamminess; this is not another fruit bomb. Lots of complexity and flavours ranging from ripe plum and liquorice to classy vanillan and cedar oak. Great length and balance.

It turns out that Rob Gibson was a chief winemaker at Penfolds, where one of his tasks was identifying the best sources of Shiraz grapes for making Grange. Gibson ended up with a lot of useful knowledge, and set up his own business in 1997. While 2010 was generally a great year, Gibson’s sources in the northern Barossa suffered frost damage in the spring, which resulted in very low yields with just 650 cases made. The wine spent over 2 years mostly French oak. 14.5%. Score: 8.5

Hillcrest Premium Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010, $55 at MyCellars

I wouldn’t have picked this as a Pinot Noir; it certainly shows precious little resemblance to red Burgundies. This is the bronzed Aussie interpretation, a muscle-bound specimen with tons of colour and enormous depth of flavour. With so much ripe cherry and plum fruit supported by vanillan oak, this is a Pinot to go with steak instead of duck. It’s an impressive red even if it’s off the style map. Surprising that it’s only 13.1%. Halliday gives this wine 97 points, Winefront 94. I’m with Winefront on this one. Score: 8+

DE BORTOLI Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010, $28 at Winefront

When I look at the reviews for this wine, I get a sense of the emperor’s clothes – everybody raves about it but I don’t quite see it. De Bortoli’s is a success story, and it seems success is de rigeur. Matt Skinner reckons this wine is ‘every bit as good as the PHI,’ which is crap. Halliday, Stelzer and Winefront are out there on 94/95 points. WiningPom says ‘This Pinot is always a textbook example of what Steve Webber and Sarah Fagan can achieve with their collective Pinot scorcery and in 2010 it’s a tantalising feast for Pinotphiles.’

To me, it’s a bit on the dry side with the leafy herbaceous bits overdone. It’s on the light side too, and a bit mean and lean on the palate – it’s a knife edge with these Pinots, and I could well be wrong and it may all fall into place some day. Against such overwhelming forces, I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt but give me the PHI any day. Score: 7+

NOT CONVINCED

Oakridge Over The Shoulder Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2012, $17 at Dan M’s

An affordable wine made by a winery with a huge reputation. Is this the label that David Bicknell at Oakridge makes for Woolworths? Can’t remember. This is a delicate Chardonnay in the winery’s typical style, but it’s missing flavour, depth and intensity. Even over 3 days in the open bottle, the wine refused to deliver anything of substance. 12.5%. Score: 5.5

Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011, $24 at 1^st Choice

This was disappointing given the expectations raised by the mighty Moss Wood name and the price. It’s an elegant style, well enough made with good length and flinty acid but lacking flavour and depth. At almost 2 years of age, I don’t expect the wine to fill out much. The Fraser  Gallop 2011 SSB has a lot more going for it, and even the Mad Fish Bay above is better drinking in my view despite a price tag that’s $10 lower. JH gives this 95 points, I cannot imagine why. Score: 6

Rosemount Estate Chardonnay 2011, $11 at 1^st Choice

I picked up a bottle of this because I wrote a post for my marketing blog about how Southcorp and Fosters trashed the Rosemount brand in the naughties. $1.5 billion dollars is the princely sum Southcorp Wines paid Bob Oatley of Wild Oats fame for Rosemount back in 2001. Just last year, its new owners Treasury Wine Estates (just demerged from Fosters) went through a major brand repositioning exercise. Full story here: http://blog.technoledge.com.au/2012/12/12/how-southcorp-and-fosters-trashed-the-rosemount-brand/

The good news is that they got rid of that stupid bottle with the diamond-shaped bottom. The bad news is that they almost made the iconic diamond-shaped label invisible – it’s just a shade of orange darker than the background. The other bad news is that I’m wondering whether the wine belongs into the AVOID group, but the modest price makes me think I should err on the generous side.

The label says The bright fresh flavours of Diamond Label are the perfect expression of Rosemount Estate, and the flavours are pretty fresh I have to concede. So fresh they remind me of fruit juice: pineapple and apricot. Best served well chilled on hot days.Score: 5

Yalumba Y series Viognier 2012, $10 lots of places

I keep reading what remarkable value these wines represent, and I keep hoping that I get lucky. This has a more flavour than the usual bland fare under this label, but it’s a bit on the coarse and crude side. Even considering the modest price, there are better wines to be had for $10. Score: 5

DE BORTOLI Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2008, was $28 at Winestar but all gone now

Just a footnote really: This wine would’ve been much better 2 years ago, it’s dried out since then. This may give us a hint that the 2010 might go the same way, which brings up the horror scenario of the man in the desert who is starving as a snake slithers past him – how does he know which part of the snake he should take a bite out of?

DE BORTOLI Shiraz Viognier 2008, $27 at Winestar plus free magnum worth $120 http://www.winestar.com.au/prod2797.htm

Call me suspicious but, with the rave reviews listed on the link page, and the modest price of $27, why do you need to throw in what amounts to a 35% discount? You guessed it: I didn’t like it. The wine has that ‘we’ve given this the treatment’ feel to it, vibrant and slick and nervously juicy from the Viognier which never works for me. Adding a small % of Viognier is what they do in the Rhone Valley, but it doesn’t produce Rhone-style wines in Australia. Instead, it produces wines that appear highly manipulated. 13.5%. This gets 96  It gets 7 from me.

Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz 2009, $18 at Kemenys

The fruit for this wine is sourced from Bendigo and the Grampians (what we used to call Great Western). The last bottle I had of this wine about 9 months ago was better; maybe it’s going through an awkward stage. There are cool climate Shiraz notes with more pepper and cloves than fruit, and the alcohol is moderate at 13.5%. There was some furry heat on the finish which cleaned up a bit over a couple of days but left lingering doubts. This should be a super bargain, with JH giving it 96 points, but I couldn’t get excited about it this time. Campbell Mattinson at Winefront gives it a much more cautious 91+, which is close to my mark. These wines do tend to age well.Score: 7

  Forrester Estate Cabernet Merlot 2010, $16 at Dan M’s

I loved the 2009 for its elegance and finesse and seamless integration, but the 2010 is nothing like it. It lacks the integration, the depth of elegant flavour and the charm of its predecessor. It’s like a poor carbon copy that has faded a bit, and it confirms yet again that 2009 was a better vintage over west than 2010. 13.5% Score: 5

Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $20 at Dan M’s

Western Australia’s treacherous southwest coastline is littered with shipwrecks, and this vineyard is named after one of them – the Ringbolt. It sank in the late 1800s in what is now known as Ringbolt Bay, not far from Cape Leeuwin. I like the story a lot more than the wines from this estate – I didn’t care for the 2010, and I can’t get excited about the 2011. It has plenty of flavour and ripe fruit and depth and length but there are green tinges and inky streaks that worry me. Over several days in the open bottle, these problems didn’t fade but announced themselves more forcefully. Shame.

14%. Score: 5

AVOID

Houghton Margaret River Chardonnay 2011, $14 at 1^st Choice

This wine wasn’t recognisable as Chardonnay, and we could find no redeeming features in it. It lacks definition, focus, flavour and all-round appeal. Yes, it’s made from Margaret River fruit, and yes people keep telling me that Houghton make some terrific wines but this isn’t one of them. Eevn the ever generous JH only gives it 89 points. 13.5%

Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $14 at Dan Murphys

I bought this wine to get a feel for the 2012 vintage in New Zealand, in preference to the high volume Oyster Bay and Villa Maria labels. It said it was a family winery on the back label, so I wanted to like it. Sadly, the main flavours suggest boiled asparagus and capsicum, not gooseberry and lantana. There’s also a flat patch on the mid palate where we expect to find depth of flavour; it doesn’t hang together well and I fear it never will.

Shingleback The Davey Estate Shiraz 2010

Another big McLaren Vale Shiraz, and let me confess once more that I’m not a big fan of big McLaren Vale reds. I’m also finding ripe, alcoholic Shiraz from South Australia a bit tiresome on the whole. This one gave me mixed messages: dark, ripe almost jammy fruits and spices seemed to fight with inky notes and a hot, dry finish. Finished short and hard, really. 14.5%

I didn’t know this winery, but Halliday gives it 5 stars and says it won the 2006 Jimmy Watson trophy for its 2005 Cabernet. That suggests these wines have a lot of work done on them, and perhaps that work didn’t come off in the 2010 Shiraz.

Kim