Why did the de Bortoli family choose such a cheap label to honour its patriarch? Fair question, isn’t it? Yalumba did a similar thing with grande dame Christobel, but Eilleen Hardy got a much better deal.
The Deen Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon 2009 is nearly as good as the 2008. Very similar style, still more round than long and more sweet than complext but who’s gonna argue these fine points for $10.50 at Dan M’s? If you want to grab some of the last bottles of the great 2008, Winestar still has some for $11. 91+ points. BUY.
The Deen Vat 7 Chardonnay 2012 gets a great write-up from Bert at Winestar, but didn’t get us nearly as excited despite the gold medal and 96 point rating at this year’s Melbourne Show. Simple wine without a lot of Chardy character, a round and pleasant drink for the money. 89 points. BUY We’d opt for the Yalumba Y Viognier, which is a similar style and price but with a bit more to it.
The $7 (Dan M) Paul Mas Viognier 2012 from the Languedoc isn’t worth writing about, or drinking. Short and sweet, literally.
Next comes a bracket of reds from ALDI. The best of these was the Second Left Eden Valley Cabernet Merlot 2012, good value for $9 but it seems to have sold out. ALDI works with small batches, which is a good thing but will create these situations from time to time.
I had great expectations of the Tudor Central Victorian Shiraz 2010 but it’s a simple, fruit-driven red lacking depth and complexity. Very smooth, clean and well-made is the best I can say for it. $13 at ALDI. 88 points, NOT CONVINCED
The El Toro Macho Tempranillo 2012 is even simpler, but for $5 this lightweight is perhaps the perfect pizza red on a hot summer night (slightly chilled – the wine, not the pizza). $5 at ALDI. 86 points. BUY.
Josef Chromy Botrytis Riesling 375ml 2009 – $22 at Winelistaustralia
Sits at the opposite end of the scale from the de Bortoli, with less botrytis and richness but far more refinement, length and purity of fruit. Much more Germanic, but a little more noble rot would’ve added more interest. Will improve. 92+ points, borderline BUY at this price.
Pierre Brevin Sancerre 2012 – $19 at Dan M’s
So much more subtlety here than we see in down under Savvies. Crisp, fresh and elegant, easy on the gums. Best drunk with unadorned shellfish. 90 points. Borderline BUY if you feel like a change
Yealands Land Made Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $16.50 at Winestreet
Finally got hold of a bottle of this wine that has won a trophy and six golds, and was going at Winestreet for $12. Not a well-known label, but what a wine – classic savvy with gooseberry, cut grass and herbs aplenty; long fine acid, no hints of sugary concoction here, not complex but will fill out over the next year. One of the best savvies we’ve tasted this year. 93 points (that’s a lot any savvy). BUY.
Kemenys has the 2013 for $15. We’ll try it when we can.
Brookland Valley Verse 1 Chardonnay 2012 – $11.40 at 1st Choice
We’ve been singing the praises of the Brookland Valley Verse 1 range for many moons, and the Chardonnay runs rings around the de Bortoli (and many dearer Chardies), with more recognisable Chardonnay fruit and complexity from oak maturation. Medium-bodied, full-flavoured, oak a little dominant right now but will get better over the next year or two. 91+ points. BEST BUY
Brookland Valley Verse 1 Cabernet Merlot 2011 – $11.40 at 1st Choice
Another old favourite that’s still around. Made it onto Halliday’s top 100 list with 93 points. It’s a lovely, medium-bodied Cab Merlot, not complex but soft and beguiling, and great value. 91 points. BEST BUY
Pitchfork Western Australian Shiraz 2011 – $16 at Nicks
The basic label from Hayshed Hill at Margaret River. It shows some warm Shiraz fruit with hints of confectionary and vanilla oak. The tuning isn’t quite right and the wine just doesn’t sing. Or ring our bells. 89 points. Not Convinced.
Deen de Bortoli Vat 9 Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 – $10.50 at Dan M’s
This is the pick of the reds under this label, maybe because it’s so young and fresh and precocious. It’s head and shoulders above its siblings, with cassis fruit that’s not overdone, better balance and less alcohol. Should improve for a year or two. Gets 92 from the Winefront, 91 from JH and 90 points from us. BUY.
Thorn Clarke Shotfire Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 56% Shiraz 44% 2010 – $20 at MyCellars
This wine won the 2012 Great Aussie Red comp outright, and it’s easy to see why: it’s big, ripe, rich and in your face, much like the 2013 Best Aussie Shiraz comp winner Pepperjack in style – these wines stand out in a big line-up and grab the attention of the judges. I had a bottle of this 9 months ago and found it a bit obvious and a touch coarse, a country lad that had missed out on the final polish of a good finishing school. It would’ve been nice to see more smoothness this time but it was not to be. 2 trophies, 3 golds. 91 points. BUY if you like big reds.
PS: The sample was supplied by the ever generous Kemenys, but they seem to have run out.
Turners Crossing Shiraz Viognier 2010 – $20 at Kemenys
A big red from Bendigo, made by Sergio Carlei who also makes wines in the Yarra Valley under the Green Vineyards label. Halliday really likes this wine, saying: ‘Everything about this wine is impressive, from its vibrant cherry and plum fruit through to its fine, spicy tannins that run through much of the palate, and its impressive finish and aftertaste.’ Mattinson at the Winefront also sees ‘lots of succulent, well-ripened, smooth fruit [and] impeccable tannin. Found it a little odd at first but it rapidly seduced me. Rated : 93 Points.’
The first thing that leapt out from my glass was the alcohol (14.5%), the second thing was liquorice – the serious slightly bitter kind. Yes, there’s a lot of dense fruit buried underneath but to me this is another wine that lacks polish, and another wine that hasn’t improved its manner since we met 6 months ago. The liquorice is there on the palate as well, with some gravelly tannin.
I suspect this wine might well turn into one of those really interesting, tarry, leathery, herbaceous old reds that go really well with roast beef on cold winter nights. Given a decade or two, that is. On its current form, I’d have to say this hairy-chested pack of muscles is not my cup of wine. 90+. The rating reflects future potential. Try before you buy.
Tatty Road Chardonnay 2012 – $14 at Winedirect
A cheerful, uncomplicated Chardy made by Gemtree at McLaren Vale. Medium bodied, made from organic fruit and easy to drink. 89 points. BUY
St Hallett Poachers Blend 2013 – $10 in a 6-pack at Graysonline
From the winery: ‘St Hallet Poacher’s Blend is a daringly fun and light-hearted blend with a twist in its tail!! Undeniably fresh and lifted, this unpretentious young wine is blended predominantly from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc with a special proportion of Riesling added each vintage giving it an unusual twist and a crisp, citrus finish.’
They must make millions of cases of this vin ordinaire, which reminds me of a wishy-washy Aussie Chenin Blanc. JH gives it 83. Same here. AVOID.
St Hallett Eden Valley Riesling 2013 – 96, $18 in a 6-pack at Graysonline.
This is an austere Riesling (11%) that has a touch of that unripe fruit character I’m oversensitive to. Nice line and length, though, and will clearly improve. Halliday really likes it and gives it 96, but I think there are better options in this price range. 91 points. Check before you BUY.
Ad Hoc Middle of Everywhere Shiraz 2012 – $19 at Dan M’s
Made by the ubiquitous Larry Cherubino from Frankland River (Great Southern) fruit. Both the winemaker and the wine get rave reviews, and I can see why. This red is full of soft, rich, seductive red fruits, all touched up with some polished oak. Yes, very well polished. Hides its 14.5% well too. 93 points. BUY
Ad Hoc Avant Gardening Cabernet Malbec 2012 – $21 at the winery
This is a bit too refined for my taste, pretty almost. I like the elegance here and the cool Cabernet fruit but the charm is all on the surface – for deep and meaningful experiences, look elsewhere. 88 points. NOT CONVINCED. (Please note: other reviewers are much kinder to this wine)
Terre ȧ Terre Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 – $34 at Our Cellar
Given to us by a generous friend. Made by Xavier Bizot at Wrattonbully (Limestone Coast). Xavier is married to Lucy Croser whose father Brian’s Whalebone vineyard is nearby. The wine is made the old way from hand-picked fruit, is matured in old oak for 13 months and then 8 months in a near-new 4000L foudres (big barrels).
It’s in the style of a generous Coonawarra Cabernet but hides its alcohol well (14.5%); it even has a touch of mint along with some pencil shavings oak. There’s some ripe but cool blue fruit, and good length with fine, lingering tannins. Like most reds from this area, it lacks a little mid-palate depth and concentration. 92+ points. Outside of our price range.
That’s it for this week
Kim