The first wine below describes this lot of wines pretty well: a strange collection of good and bad, from ordinary to exotic. Been busy building the new website, so wines to review were grabbed here and there. I apologise for the photos – didn’t have the right camera with me half the time. Must work harder … yes!!
BUY
Amelia Park Mishmash Red 2010
Nice, easy-on-the gums Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc/Merlot) from a newish maker in Margaret River. Good flavour and length, not a lot depth but great value for $12 at Kemenys. Perfect everyday drinking or BBQ red. 14%. Winemaker Jeremy Gordon has won 3 golds for this wine and plenty more for its big brother the Cabernet Merlot 2010. Love the label despite its attempt to detach itself.
Essenze Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012
We’ve been looking for a 2012 Savvy to get excited about but most of them are very forward. This one showed lovely, herbaceous but ripe fruit – gooseberry and cut grass – and fine acidity with good length and the promise of more development in the short term. $12.65 at Kemenys.
Red Claw Mornington Peninsula Sauvignon Blanc 2011
This is a classy, almost creamy Sauvignon Blanc (a touch of smart oak?) that’s hard to put down. Just a really satisfying drink, full of subtle flavours rather than the usual obvious ones – suggested rather than advertised. $19. Not easy to find as it’s sold out at most places. Still some left at Wine Selectors
The other wines here are older and were tasted with friends over dinner. The Redgate 2009 was the best Cabernet Franc I’ve tasted in a long while but it’s a $40 wine more’s the shame. The Tempus Two was a let-down.
Villa Wolf Pinot Gris 2011
The Villa Wolf label is one of the many in the portfolio of the Dr Loosen Stable. It’s used for a value-priced line of varietal wines that combines estate-grown fruit with fruit from contract growers. This one comes from the Pfalz – the Palatinate in Anglais – just across the Rhein from Alsace. This is the sunniest corner in all of Germany and is undergoing a major change up from its humble, bulk-producing origins.
Pinot Gris or Grauburgunder was first identified here as a distinct variety, and this is an interesting example: rich and ripe and mouthfilling and perhaps lacking a touch more acid to balance the ripe pear and ginger sweetness. Still, a nice change. $19 at Dan M’s.
Domaine Chandon Chardonnay 2010
Another class act. Didn’t quite see it that way a year ago, thought it was too lean and skinny and lemony. It’s come around with more stonefruit and cashews. It’s elegant but with plenty of flavour and length. Made by the well-known bubbly people in the Yarra Valley. No longer in the shops, not sure the 2011 is in the same class but Halliday gives it 94. 12.5%. $20 at Winestar.
Hidden Label Central Ranges Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011
This wine hails from around Orange and offers plenty of juicy, zesty flavour somewhere between passionfruit and lemons. Not recognisable as a Sauvignon Blanc Semillon but an enjoyable, lively white for $10 at Kemenys.
NOT CONVINCED
Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2011
This wine won the trophy for best Pinot Noir at the recent Sydney Show, then went on to win best red wine of the show, and was then crowned best wine of the whole show. So we bought some even though it’s outside our $25 ballpark, thinking just over $30 is pretty cheap for a great Pinot. Sadly, this wine presents more proof that neither gongs nor price provide any guarantee of quality.
Reg likes this better than I do, thinks it will improve. I’m not so sure. It’s all wet leaves and dry herbs and stalks right now, complex but lacking depth and ripe fruit despite its 13.5%. Finishes long but with that touch of hardness you often find in this variety. Lacks charm right now. The fact that it’s still in the shops suggests that I’m not the only one who’s not convinced. $31.50 at 1st Choice .
Hill-Smith Estate Eden Valley Chardonnay 2010
The Hill-Smiths are the family behind Yalumba, so this looked like a potential winner. There’s good fruit here and quality French oak, and the wine was clearly given a lot of attention in the winery. The result is interesting but lacks harmony. Given that the wine is 3 years old, it doubtful that the various elements clamouring for attention will make peace in the short term. 13%. $18 at Kemenys.
Kemenys Hidden Label Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2008
This wine had more appeal a year ago. It has dried out since, which can happen with wines. If you bought any of this, drink it sooner rather than later. The Chandon above went the other way – just goes to show how hard it is to assess wines and tell their future.
McLeod Gippsland Chardonnay 2010
Mount Macleod’s three vineyard sites are in the Leongatha region of Gippsland, where free-draining ironstone soils prevail. Mark Mathews is the owner/winemaker, and he brings a ton of experience to the job. He and his wife clearly care for their environment as they’ve converted the main chardonnay block to certified organic, and are rehabilitating around 8ha of wetlands with the local catchment authority.
All that said, I wish I could’ve liked the wine better but it leans far over to the lean grapefruit side of the spectrum for my taste. Very well-made if that style’s your cup of tea, and good value for a boutique Chardy at $17 at Dan M’s.
Rosemount Regional Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2010
This line is being run out either by Dan M’or by Rosemount/TWE. Going for 13, I thought this red from a good year and good area might be a bargain but it’s vin ordinaire. Perhaps a bit harsh that – it’s an OK drink and easy on the gums but without great character or distinction. $12 at Dan M’s.
Le Moire Annibale 2010
A wine from Calabria in Italy imported by some enterprising soul. It’s made from the local magliocco variety plus 20% sangiovese. The interesting name comes from the legend that Hannibal drank this wine and announced that he’d discovered the best-kept secret in Rome. After that build-up, the wine was a real let-down: it’s a simple soul under that evocative label, more local peasant than Phoenician warrior, and not great value for $20 at Bonds Corner or Banks Fine Wine.
Turners Crossing Shiraz Viognier 2010
The Turners Crossing from Bendigo also comes with a decent pedigree. Reg likes this wine (he loves big reds) but I found it too big and too alcoholic. A lump of a red that just lacks elegance and drinking appeal to my mind. 14.5%. 95 points from Halliday, so it may be just my dislike of sledgehammer reds. $18 at Kemenys.
Deen de Bortoli Vat 1 Durif 2010
Some of the wines in the Deen de Bortoli Vat line are bargains, the Botrytis Semillon for example, and the Shiraz. The Durif has a stack of medals and good reviews to its credit. It’s lighter in body than I expected, which but I found it pretty underwhelming, a bit simple, not recognisable as Durif, and a bit of a muddle on the finish. $10.50 at Dan M’s
Vintage Cellars Chalkboard Cotes du Rhone 2011
A very light Cote-du-Rhone that slips down the hatch without leaving much of an impression. Light red for summer picnics. Won’t last until next summer, though. 13.5%. $10 at Vintage Cellars.
AVOID
Vintage Cellars Chalkboard Semillon 2012
This wine is made by Tyrrells. It drew loads of attention to itself when it won two trophies at last year’s Hunter valley show. Rave reviews followed. I didn’t like it a bit, finding unripe fruit and some artificial fruit sweetness there. When I’m out by a mile on a wine, I like to recheck my bearings a few months later. It turns out that the wine has lost its early zip and turned flabby. The other unpleasant elements are still there. $11 at 1st Choice. No longer listed on the website so stocks are running out. No great loss.
Stoneleigh Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Bastard Marlborough savvy, made in ocean-like quantities and lapped up by Aussie punters with gusto. Fruit cocktail with more resemblance to alcopops than wine. $12 at Kemenys. Maybe I’m being a bit harsh on this wine but do yourselves a favour and buy the Essenze for a dollar more from the same place – $12 at Kemenys.
Hardy’s OOMOO GSM 2010
I described this wine as undrinkable a year ago, and was curious if it had had made amends. Sadly, it has not. Hardy’s flogged it all off through Grays Online and other bulk channels long ago so it’s no longer an issue. Except for the bottles I’m stuck with – use it for cooking at your peril, I mean it. Down the sink is the only solution.
Kim