In the last couple of weeks, we’ve been checking out the latest bargains from Kemenys’ Hidden and Devils Ridge labels. Not sure why they do 2 different ranges of bargain wines under their own labels. The only difference is that all Devil’s Ridge wines are $10 and sometimes mention the winery, while the Hidden Labels vary in price and invite you to guess the origin.
We also bring you some of Australia’s great dessert wine bargains since the nights are getting colder. They’re great with fruits and nuts and dark chocolate. Go to the end of the post to read about them.
BUY
Devils Ridge Block `16 Riesling 2012 – $10 at Kemenys
The Polish Hill River moniker has amused us for years – is it a hill or a river? Either way, it’s a bargain Riesling from the Wilson winery that shows the delicacy of this area but is more forward than you’d expect, filling out and opening up over several days in bottle. Not as much lime and acid as the best wines from this area but utterly enjoyable.
Bethany Barossa Semillon 2010 – $15 at Dan M’s
This was a fascinating foil for the Tyrrells Belford 2007 (see below), in the sense that it had the clearer line and length of fine acid, and the development potential of a decade or more. Classic grassy, lemony young Semillon at this stage. Surprised with its finesse, given the Barossa origin, but Bethany is quietly making great wines down there. 2010 was a great year too.
Essenze Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $12.50 at Kemenys
Enjoyed another bottle of this and confirmed again that it’s one of the better 2012 Kiwi Savvies. Fresh and grassy with a hint of gooseberries and a very clean line of acid keeping it all on the straight and narrow. Much tighter structure than most of the soft and soggy 2012s.
Please note: the Hidden Label Savvy in the photo has since sold out – them’s the breaks.
Pfitzner Eric’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 – $15 at Annandale Cremorne NorthbridgeCellars
James Halliday tells us that ‘The late Eric Pfitzner purchased and aggregated a number of small, subdivided farmlets to protect the beauty of the Piccadilly Valley from ugly rural development. His three sons inherited the vision, with the vineyard planted principally to chardonnay and pinot noir.’
This is not easy to find elsewhere but it’s a terrific modern style Chardonnay, fresh and vibrant with lovely integration of white peaches and gentle oak. Worth chasing.
Hoddles Creek Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2012 – $19 at MyCellars
Another winner from Franco d’Anna in the upper Yarra Valley. Lovely fruit in the white peach spectrum, creamy mouth feel from the classy oak that is seamlessly integrated. Already enjoyable but will be better in a couple of years. Can’t think of a better Chardonnay under $35.
Hidden label McLaren Vale Merlot 2011 – $12 at Kemenys
This turns out to be the Richard Hamilton Lot 148 Merlot, and it’s a beauty. The only clue to the wine’s identity was the Trophy for best Merlot at the Queensland show. More like a 50/50 Cabernet Merlot, not just simple plum compote. There’s lovely dark berry fruit here, and a hint of polished oak, and depth of flavour with elegance. Wonderful wine for the money.
Devils Ridge Cabernet Merlot 2011 – $10 at Kemenys
A plush, velvety number from Margaret River that slips down the hatch with great ease – soft and cuddly but not too big. 14%. Just perfect for all those times you just want an easy-drinking, mouth-filling, satisfying red.
Devil’s Ridge Block 15 Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 – $10 at Kemenys
More of the same here, but a touch longer and leaner, almost stylish. Margaret River again.
Hope Farm Mataro 2010
This is an eye-opener from GLUG, a convincing demonstration of the wonderful red Mataro/ Mourvèdre can produce in the Barossa. Sweet fruit and layers of silky flavours, all seamless and stylish. Lovely mouthfeel, soft but balanced. Great red with lamb. In France, this variety can make very tough reds and is known as Etrangle Chien (yes, dog strangler).
NOT CONVINCED
Houghtons White Classic 2012 – $6.50 at Kemenys
It doesn’t seem right to pick holes in a wine at this price, and it isn’t really that bad. If you don’t mind a bit of artifice, it’s OK to drink chilled on a hot day. We’d rather spend a couple of dollars more and buy a Montes Chardonnay from Chile.
Tramin Pinot Grigio 2011 – was on special for $15 at Vintage Cellars
Sudtirol is an area on the southern Alps that Austria ceded to Italy after the last WW, so it’s now called Alto Adige. We were expecting a PG with a bit more bite, backbone and minerals than our ripe down under versions; instead we got more ripe pears and peaches. Shame.
Tyrrells Belford Semillon 2007 – $24 at Kemenys
I’ve copped a fair bit of flak from my mates for my hard attitude to various Hunter Valley Semillons. The reason I chose this one is that it’s actually made from ripe fruit (12.6%). It’s the last of the Semillons picked by Tyrrells from the Belford vineyard near the New England Highway. This 6-year old wine proves my point that riper fruit makes better Semillons, but it tastes more like a Chardonnay. In that sense, it doesn’t quite convince. I think the Bethany Semillon is the better buy.
Mount Langi Cliff Edge Shiraz 2009 – $22 at MyCellars
This has been around for a while, despite James Halliday declaring it a great bargain and giving it 96 points. Yes, there’s a promising nose and nice soft, fragrant red berry fruit here but not a lot of complexity or length – the wine drops off the cliff instead of producing a decent finish. For my money, it simply lacks substance. There are better reds around for this money.
Bellarmine Pinot Noir 2012 – $18 at Kemenys
We admire this winery at Pemberton in WA which produces delicate boutique whites at modest prices , and we really wanted to like this wine. The nose promised classic red Burgundy (notes of dank leaves, forest floor and compost) but the palate failed to deliver on it. It lacks the sweet fruit we like to see in Pinot Noir, and the sharp line that keeps it in check. It’s short as well – three of us agreed on this, and the wine didn’t redeem itself over the following days. Again, Halliday sings its praises and rates it 95. We were disappointed.
Fortified Beauties
These are unique wines to Australia, mostly made from muscadelle grapes around Rutherglen in North-Eastern Victoria. The rest of the world hasn’t discovered these treasures yet, and they’re largely ignored in their home country. As a result, these treasures are serious bargains.
Morris Classic Tawny 500ml 500ml – $17 at Dan M’s
Morris Classic Liqueur Muscat 500mL – $17 at Dan M’s
Morris Classic Liqueur Tokay 500mL – $17 at Dan M’s
Buller Fine Old Tokay 750 ml – $18 at Dan M’s
