It took several decades before the New World winemakers began to make decent Pinot Noirs. Now that they’ve succeeded, Australia’s and New Zealand’s major Pinots cost as much as minor red Burgundies. Some argue that ours are better, but let’s not forget that even the great Burgundies don’t often hit the sweet spot.
That’s because Pinot Noir is the most fickle of red varieties. Vineyard sites and soils, clonal selection of vines, winemaking tricks like fancy yeasts, maceration, cold soaking and barrel fermentation – all these variables need to be optimised before there’s even a chance of success. Over the years, many men have become obsessed with wine’s Holy Grail and gone mad trying.
So what can we expect for $20?
Or $15 or $10, which are points on our value curve? Authenticity? Yes, sometimes. Style? Maybe. Worth cellaring? Mm, next question. Satisfaction? Rarely. The toughest issue is value, and the simple truth is that there’s better value to be found in Shiraz and Cabernet or Malbec and Merlot, or blends of these. Add more satisfaction and far more consistency of style.
I can think of half a dozen Cabernet blends that’ll knock your socks off for under $15. I can’t think of many Pinots that would do the same. If you’re happy to settle for a soft red, there are more reliable choices than Pinot Noir. Here are a few:
St Hallett Gamekeepers Shiraz Grenache Touriga 2013 – $12 at Jim’s Cellars. Jimmy Watson Trophy runner-up late last year, soft and seductive, with sweet fruit and instant appeal.
Hidden Label Coonawarra Merlot 2013 – $12 at Kemenys. This is Leconfield Merlot under a hidden label. It’s not Chateau Petrus but it’s better than anything from over there under $25.
Head Wines Nouveau 2013 – $15 at Prince Wine Store. Alex Head has made a ripper drinking red from Touriga, Montepulciano and dash of Grenache, a real crowd pleaser with a ton of easy charm.
Zonte’s Footstep Violet Beauregard Malbec 2013 – $16 at Summer Hill Wine Shop. Voluptuous fruit and a velvet palate, a crowd pleaser that will improve for a couple of years.
So are there any decent Pinot Noirs under $20 or not?
The answer is YES, despite the above-mentioned caveats, but you have to like the style. Food pairing is also important, and Pinot is perfect with Duck and similar game. It works with some veal dishes too, and maybe coq-au-vine. So we’ve put together a list of wines we’ve tried and other reviewers have given the thumbs up to. What’s surprising here is the number of Pinots in this modest price range from boutique wineries in premium wine areas.
Pinots Under $15
De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir 2013 – $10 at Dan M’s. Halliday and Stelzer like this Pinot, but I’d pay the extra dollar for the Hidden label Gulf Station below.
Hidden Label Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 – $11 at Kemenys. This is de Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir, and it’s the best in years. No fireworks but pleasant Pinot of good colour and character. Gets 92 and 93 points from the Winefront and JH. I’m on 91. The plain wrapper saves $5. The stand-out in this group.
Trentham Estate Pinot Noir 2014 – $12 at WLA. A consistent surprise packet from the Riverina. Simple but effective.
Lock & Key Tumbarumba Pinot Noir 2014 – $13 at Our Cellar. A cool climate charmer from Jason Brown at Moppity in the Hilltops. Light, fruity and fresh style, value for money.
Holm Oak Ilex Pinot Noir 2013 – $15 at Grand Central Cellars. The baby Pinot from Holm Oak is a light, fragrant, fruit-driven red. Aussie Beaujolais-Villages. Will take a light chill too.
Pinot Noirs under $20
Paddy Borthwick Paper Road Pinot Noir Wairarapa 2013 – $16 at Summer Hill Wine Shop. Paddy Borthwick has built quite a reputation in Wairarapa, of which Martinborough is a sub-region, but his wines are virtually impossible to find over this side. When you do, the asking price is $20 or more. Haven’t tried it yet, check it out.
Hidden Label Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2013 – $16 at Kemenys. This is Eddystone Point Pinot under a Hidden label (which saves $10). The colour is on the light side but there’s plenty of soft plummy flavour and velvety depth. Not an exacting Pinot Noir but an enjoyable one. 3 Golds to its credit.
The Crossings Pinot Noir 2013 – $16 at Dan M’s. From the Awatere Valley in the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Less opulent and more savoury than the Mount Trio, more dried herbs and leaves, more complexity and more length. Pretty classy Pinot for the price.
Riposte the Dagger Pinot Noir 2014 – $18 at MyCellars. The basic Pinot Tim Knappstein makes at Lenswood. I found the 2013 rather simple, but CM at the Winefront raves about the 2014, calling it ‘pretty as a picture’ and suggesting a case buy. He gives it 94 points.
Palliser Estate Pencarrow Pinot Noir – $18 at Dan M’s. Deep red/purple colour, big for a Pinot Noir, body follows suit, varietal character is not strong but there’s flavour plus depth and length. Good.
Hoddles Creek Pinot Noir 2014 – $20 at Winelistaustralia or United Cellars. Franco d’Anna achieves remarkable consistency in these wines. Lovely balance between cherries, forest floor notes and smoky oak. The quality/price ratio is as good as it gets, but the wine is better than the price suggests.
Mandala Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 – $20 at Winestar. We were impressed with the Chardonnay from this great little boutique a few weeks back, haven’t tried the Pinot Noir which gets 95 points from JH. Worth checking out for sure.
Phaedrus Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2012 – $20 at Summer Hill Wine Shop. Hand-made wine from a tiny winery, where Ewan Campbell and Maitena Zantvoort specialise in Pinot Noir. Highly recommended by a subscriber, great price.
Bellbrae Estate Longboard Pinot Noir – $20 at MyCellars. Haven’t tried this red from a tiny boutique in Geelong near Bell’s Beach (therefore the Longboard) but the reviews are enthusiastic. Halliday calls it a delicious, lip-smacking Pinot.
Mount Trio Pinot Noir 2012 – $20 at Camperdown Cellars. This winery near Porongurup (Mount Barker) is the latest venture of Gavin Berry who’s been making then wines for Westcape Howe for the last decade. This is soft, rich and sumptuous Pinot Noir that’s ready to drink.
Pinot Noirs over $20
TarraWarra Estate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2012/13 – $22 at Summer Hill Wine Shop (2012) or $21 at Dan M’s. Much like Hoddles Creek, these guys make benchmark Pinots at a great price.
Finestra Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 – $22 Cloudwine. Hand-made in small quantities. ‘Medium bodied, cherries, plenty of grunt, clean acid, sure minerally feel, excellent length. Super! Weight!’ says Gary Walsh at the Winefront ‘ … Insane value. 93 Points.’
Bress Silver Chook Pinot Noir 2013 – $22 at Cloudwine. Handmade from Yarra Valley and Macedon fruit by Adam Marks, this is one of the best value for money Pinots around. Supple and silky, clear varietal definition.
Rabbit Ranch Central Otago Pinot Noir 2012 – $23 at Wineboxwarehouse. Classic Central Otago Pinot Noir, all the robust colour and flavour and polish at a nice price. Made by Chard Farm.
Kim
