‘The 2022 releases from Kumeu River are fantastic.’ Matthew Dukes
I’ve been banging the drum for Kumeu River for several years, as you know. New Zealand had 3 near perfect vintages in a row: 2019, 2020 and 2021. By contrast, 2022 was a difficult year for some regions in the wake of Cyclone Dovi and the rain it brought with it.
The cyclone sailed past Auckland, according to Michael Brajkovich, and Kumeu River had another good vintage. I bought a lot of the 2022 Kumeu Village Chardonnay, which is the best I can remember. I also bought some 2022 Estate chardy, and found it richer and riper than Bob Campbell at the Real Review did.
Matthew Dukes agrees with Bob, and says: ‘While the 2022 Estate Chardonnay is usually a forward-drinking style that brings top-class Chardy to the table at an affordable price, you must put your brakes on with this vintage. In 2022, the Estate Chardonnay maintains its keen price, and it demands a further year of slumber before you unscrew the top! It is by far and away the finest Estate Chardonnay I have tasted from this perennially appealing property. In fact, I wrote the words ‘extraordinary gravitas’ about this oft-innocent wine.’
Image source: Real Review
Sounds like I need to go and get my tasting gear tuned up. About the Kumeu Village, Dukes says: ‘If you want to drink a 2022 right now, slip down the ladder one notch to the 2022 Village Chardonnay. This wine is joyous, open and welcoming.’
I love the distinctive style of Kumeu Chardonnay, the pristine fruit, the depth of flavour and texture (malolactic fermentation is encouraged rather than avoided), seamless oak integration, and very fair pricing given the quality of the wines.
Dukes’ top Chardonnay from Kumeu in 2022 is ‘the sublime Hunting Hill, which shows effortlessly classy fruit, unending beauty and superb control. It is the most forward of the bunch because of its silkiness and openness, and I doubt it will shut down. I have a feeling that it will do something that very few Chardonnays ever manage – to start its life fully open and maintain this full blossom of perfume and flavour until it fades in perhaps fifteen years.’
Of the Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2022, the dearest and hardest wine to get hold of, Dukes says: ‘It is blunt, structured, four-square and belligerent, and it will perhaps take a decade for this wine to reach its apogee. There is no doubt that 2022 Maté’s will be part of endless 2022 Chardonnay line-ups (alongside star Burgundies) in years to come.’
The Hunting Hill and the Mate’s chardies are way above our self-imposed limit, but white Burgundies of equal calibre cost several times more. Edinburgh Cellars in Adelaide still have some Kumeu Village chardy left at $22.50 for a 6-pack.