A really interesting bunch this week, with some samples from ALDI stirring things up a bit.
Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $13 at Dan M’s
The label says 2012, the website says 2011. Loved the 2011 (still do) but the 2012 isn’t in the same class – less flavour, less generosity and complexity. It confirms our impression that 2012 wasn’t a great year for savvy in NZ. 87 points. Not Convinced
Mountadam Barossa Chardonnay 2012 – $15 at Winelistaustralia
This is the High Eden Chardy’s little brother, and it’s not that convincing: it doesn’t offer the rich fruit you’d expect from an unoaked Chardy, nor the generosity of body. It’s delicate and shy, and JH says ‘it needs to build complexity with time in bottle.’ He gives it 93, and we can only wonder why. We’re giving it 88 points, and suggest a rethink of the style. Not convinced.
Last Horizon Pinot Noir 2012 – $18 at Winestar
Kemenys sent me the sample but has sold out, and I know why: If you’re looking for a decent Pinot Noir sub $20, look no further. Not profound, not too serious, just a lovely, easy-drinking light red, easy to recognize Pinot Noir too. Campbell Mattinson at the Winefront calls it ‘charming … cherries, tobacco, twigs and wood smoke.’ He gives it 93 points and so does Gary Walsh. We give it 92+ points and a definite BUY.
Mike Press Adelaide Hills Single Vineyard Shiraz 2012 – $13 at MyCellars
We’ve never met Mike Press, but he must be a wonderful man coz everyone loves him and his wines. Campbell M from the Winefront gives this wine 94 points and says ‘It tastes like a Penfolds red, and a very good one at that, but at a fraction of the asking price.’ Tyson Stelzer is on the same page with the same point score, the Wine Punter waxes lyrical …
This is the second bottle we’ve tried, and we haven’t shifted our view. It’s a fruit bomb with lots of lush red fruit but in the jammy, stewed spectrum of the range. Not enough discipline to hold it in check either. It might please your undiscerning friends at the next barbie, and who are we to complain at this price? BUY it if you like the big, soft, ripe fruit style. 89 points
Miamup Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 – $13 at Kemenys
We love those Cabernets from over West, from 2011. This is a $13 Margaret River Cabernet and it ain’t half bad. Some rich cassis fruit and dusty overtones, not complex but a decent drink at the price. 89 points. BUY
Tempus Two Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $13 at MyCellars
The sample was provided by Kemenys but they’ve sold out. Lots of this around though, and not worth chasing in my view. Four of us sitting there scratching our heads – 3 trophies? My companions thought it was an OK quaffer for the money; I thought it was vin très ordinaire. Grass and acid basically, and short, but my bias against unripe Hunter Semillon may be showing again (blended with Adelaide Hills Savvy). 84 points. Avoid.
The mystery label here is the 2007 Jim Barry Riesling – $17 at Dan M’s (online only)
This is the lucky country! 6-year old Clare Valley Riesling for a pittance. Lovely wine, developing toast and honey, not overly complex but round and soft and satisfying. 94 points. BUY Lots
Kiora Bay Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – $13 at ALDI
A Savvy with balls, not just because of a shot in the arm by way of some barrel fermented Chardonnay. There’s lots of flavour here and not much sugar, not strong on gooseberries but not relying on passionfruit either. Real mouthful, rich and satisfying. 92 points. BUY.
O’Leary Walker Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – $18 at Dan M’s
We’re big fans of this Clare Valley winery but this Adelaide Hills Savvy is a disaster. It relies on early picking for its fresh, crisp make-up but it’s just a mouthful of green apples. Shades of young Hunter Semillon, but will this get better over 10 years? Not likely. 83 points. AVOID
Murray Street Black Label Shiraz 2010 – $18 at Winestar
If only more Barossa makers aimed for a style like this: a velvet glove full of goodies, polished, elegant and balanced. For once, we’re in full agreement with JH who says: ‘… a prime example of a great Barossa Valley vintage, the bouquet fragrant, the palate elegant and medium-bodied, supple and filled to the brim with perfectly ripened black fruits; the freshness of that fruit is aided by subtle, fine tannins and integrated oak. Excellent value. 14%. 95/100. 95 Points. BUY Lots
A.C. Byrne Margaret River Chardonnay 2013 – $10 ALDI
The website says 2012 but the label is a year younger. This shows very little Chardonnay character, perhaps because of its youth, but is very clean with a fine line should fill out over a year or so. 88+ points. Borderline BUY at the price.
A.C. Byrne Margaret River Le Premier Chardonnay 2012 – $13 at ALDI
A bit more to this one, more oak and minerals than fruit. Didn’t really grab us, though. 89 points, another borderline case.
Cotes Du Rhone Villages 2012 – $9 at ALDI
The label says 2012, the website 2011. Made from Grenache, Shiraz & Mourvèdre. The label says ‘ROUGE LEGER ET FRUITE,’ and that’s about it. There’s not much else here except for that slight hard, dusty edge that often comes with the territory. Simple BBQ red for the money. 87 points. Not quite convinced.
Vina Decana Reserva 2008 – $7 at ALDI
A fruit salad blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz & Grenache. Reserva means the wine spends a year in oak barrels. The result is a concoction of almost lolly-sweet fruit. AVOID even at this price – If you want a good, cheap Spanish red, find another $3 and buy the Baron Amarillo Rioja Reserva 2006 (see below)
Teusner “The Pleasure Garden” Barossa Shiraz Grenache 2012 – $15 at ALDI
We’re huge fans of Kym Teusner but not of his 2012 reds, sad to say. Like the Riebke Shiraz from the same year, this one has too much ripe, jammy fruit and not enough to hold it all together. Another Dolly Parton red. Some will like this, but we’re NOT CONVINCED. 88 Points.
Kaiora Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – $10 at ALDI
Very pale colour but a promising nose and plenty of flavour, crisp and herbaceous, good length, more straightforward than the Reserve version but good drinking at the price, better than most of the big brand cheap Kiwi savvies stacked up in the discount isles of the big chains. 90 points. BUY.
A.C. Byrne & Co Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – $10 at ALDI
This SSB is refined to the point of austerity – a Tony Abbott kind of wine: lean and tight. Very dry with lots of fine acid and some minerals. Hasn’t put on much flesh in 18 months, so it’s probably best to enjoy it as a Chablis style (12%) and drink it with delicate fish dishes. 89 points. BUY
Little Birdwood Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2013 – $5 at ALDI
What do we expect for $5? Not much, and there’s not much to talk about here. If the previous wine is austere, this one is skeletal. No flesh here, or flavour to speak of, just plenty of clean acid. The only good thing about it is that it avoids the industrial refinery characters that tend to dominate cheap wines. AVOID. Spend a bit more money.
Baron Amarillo Rioja Reserva 2006 – $10 at ALDI
This red is the real thing: an aged, complex red that’s perfect for drinking with tasty food. Developed characters as you’d expect – dried leaves, leather and tar – but all kept in check, and there’s some spicy fruit here to enjoy as well. Elegance with lots of falvour. This is a steal. 91 points. BUY.
Chateau Blaignan Cru Bourgois 2009 – $20 at ALDI
I found this disappointing given the price and the vintage of the century, and my 3 companions agreed. It’s pretty simple Merlot Cabernet that strikes some advanced notes already. It didn’t grab any of us.
That said, Robert Parker gives it 88 points and talks about ‘a seductive, sexy wine with an elegant combination of black cherry and black currant fruit. Some dusty, loamy soil notes also make an appearance as well as some high-quality unsmoked cigar tobacco. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.’ We’ll give it 88 points too, but for us that’s a NOT CONVINCED since we have a lot of wines we rate much more highly on our Under $20 list.
Hardy’s HRB/D646 Shiraz 2008 – $24 at Jim’s Cellars
I’m pretty sure this sample came from Kemenys only weeks ago but they’ve moved on to the 2009. This is a Clare Valley/ McLaren Vale blend that still shows a dense purple colour, a complex, spicy nose, and real depth of flavour on a medium-bodied palate. After a couple days in the open bottle, this red really opened up (that’s why I changed my mind on this review) Lovely wine that avoids all the excesses of Shiraz and shows the variety’s elegant side. BUY. 93. Tyson Stelzer gives it 94.
Kim