‘Opening the case is an occasion in itself’
Just when you’ve caught your breath after reading about the $1800 Bin 170 Kalimna Shiraz 2010, here’s the big one. I have no idea what it’s like being the custodian of Grange, and the chief winemaker at Penfolds. I only hope Treasury Wine Estates pay Peter Gago enough to reward him for the tireless spruiking he does, from Sydney to Shanghai, from London to New York and LA.
Here’s a quote from Decanter: ‘Abundant supplies of wine from a 2010 vintage described as “legendary” by Penfolds’ chief winemaker Peter Gago has enabled the estate to release a rare batch of luxury wines to mark its 170th anniversary.’ Alas, it turns out that this A$ 65,000 bottle is nothing more than an Imperial of the same old Bin 170 Kalimna Shiraz Block 3C 2010.
LINLEY for Penfolds
Wait a minute, you say: an Imperial is 8 750ml bottles, so why don’t we buy 8 of those and save ourselves a cool $50,000? Not so fast! You’d miss out on the wonderful Linley case the Imperial comes in. Just seven Linley cases have been made to commemorate Penfold’s 170th anniversary.
’Opening the case is an occasion in itself,’ declares Penfolds’ press release. ‘It features a bespoke compass marked with intricate detail and precision engraving. To open each imperial case one must turn the precious jade inset dial to the longitude and latitude coordinates of Magill Estate (-34, 138), Penfolds’ spiritual home. Only then can the case be opened, to reveal the magnificent imperial bottle within.’
Other features of the case include a synthetic hygrometer combined with a bimetal thermometer to measure the perfect room climate, a barrel inspired interior and a bespoke wine pourer. You also get a detailed Penfolds marquetry inlay crest on the box exterior and a secret drawer built into the box which contains a stunning photographic journey of Kalimna Block 3C as well as a Certificate of Authenticity. Needless to say, LINLEY will customize the drawer lid of each box with the purchaser’s name and bottle number.
I only have one question: Why on earth is Penfolds offering punters an Imperial in a ghastly wooden box with some kitschy accoutrements, when it had the perfect 170th birthday special 2 years ago?
More here: Penfolds launches $168,000 wine – Gago gone Gaga?
In 2012, Penfolds had released its 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet in a limited edition, hand-blown glass ampoule and a bespoke glass plumb-bob that suspends the ampoule within a wooden Jarrah cabinet. Only twelve ampoules will be made, individually numbered as you’d expect for such ‘a beautiful, thoughtful, unique objet d’art, designed to store wine in an ideal environment.’
The tantalising extra on that occasion was not a secret drawer, but the promise that a senior Penfolds winemaker would open the ampoule whenever and wherever the owner wanted – anywhere in the world. The ampoule would be ‘ceremoniously removed from its glass plumb-bob casing and opened using a specially designed, tungsten-tipped, sterling silver scribe-snap. The winemaker will then prepare the wine using a beautifully crafted sterling silver tastevin.’
What could’ve been more perfect for the occasion of Penfolds 170th birthday?
Gago spins the bottle
At the launch event in London last week, Peter Gago told Decanter that ‘Linley for Penfolds’ was the fruit of an excellent 2010 vintage. ‘We were spoilt,’ he said. ‘We always tick the box for [flagship wine] Penfolds Grange first, and 2010 will be one of the best Granges ever made. But we had this pool of wine, and it was too good to be blended away. We were going to release it last year, but then someone said we should wait for the anniversary.’
The bin 170 forms part of the 2014 Penfolds Icon and Luxury collection, which also includes a Grange 2009 vintage that received a relatively lukewarm response from reviewers. ‘2009 Grange is in a hard place strategically,’ said Gago. ‘The 2008 vintage did so well and 2009 is wedged between the 2008 and legendary 2010.’ He says he’s expecting much greater excitement around the 2010. ‘When the 2010 is released [next year], I’m going on holiday,’ he told Decanter. ‘It’s going to be crazy.’
I’m not sure how it can get much crazier, but we’ll see.
Kim